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MDE10CSAGL Maytag Dryer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Squeaky when in use, after replacing the drum pads.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Greg from CAVE CREEK, AZ
- Very Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I followed the videos provided, the only think I would added is cleaning the riding surface of the drum. In my case the drum had gunk on it from the old pads, witch got on the new pads causing it to continued to make noise.
It would be wise to also get the felt and belt, to replace them all the first time.
It would be wise to also get the felt and belt, to replace them all the first time.
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Noisy tub rollers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Johnny from MUNCIE, IN
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
By watching a video I disassembled the front and took the dryer tub out and replace the two rollers and it took about 60 minute.
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Belt broke...drum would not turn but there was heat.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dirk from CHESWICK, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed front cover.removed 4 screws holding drum in place. Cleaned out lint from everywhere. Placed new belt over drum looping it over idler arm & motor pulley. Pushed drum back ; rotated drum to see that belt was engaged. Put front drum bracket in place. Put front panel in place with 2 screws at the bottom. Tested motor & rotation of dr
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um; then checked heat. All worked fine. Took 1 hr. but most time spent cleaning lint.
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Loud squeaking noise
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from ORANGE, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
I removed the front of the dryer and the drum support plate. I drilled out the old rivets and installed the Glides with the enclose rivets. The Glides came loose in a few days! The holes in the glides are larger than in the old Glides. I disassembled the dryer again and reassembled with my rivets. This time I held the rivet gun insid
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e the perimeter of the dryer so that the head of the rivet is opposite the initial installation. So far, so good, except the dryer still squeaks. The idler pulley is now the culprit. White grease burned up. I reassembled with high temperature grease. If that does not work, I will need another idler pulley. The journal looks very worn. the dryer is 30+ years old.
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Noisy Dryer.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rodney from FAYETTEVILLE, GA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Opened your replacement part and found a broken fin on the blower wheel. no way I was going to return it and wait another week for another part. Perhaps you folks need to inspect what you send out. 1 blower wheel with a broken fin and 2 clamps. Replacement was easy and quickly accomplished. Having replaced drum rollers and the belt this d
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ryer is almost new. Thanks
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A lot of screeching noise while tumbling
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roy from Yardley, PA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
It took me a lot longer to plan the repair and decide to do it than to do the actual work, knowing what I know now, and having the parts, it would take less than half an hour. As there are no repair manuals available, it took one of these reports to give me the confidence I needed to proceed.
I first found out how to open the front ... Read more (only two screews on the underneath part of the front cover) and opened it to hear the noise, (just put the cover to one side while still connected to the door switch),,,,, sprayed some WD40 all over the place and the noise went away temporarily (DO NOT DO THIS as the oil will burn off on top of heater unit and smell and smoke). I replaced the roller that the drum sits on (above the heating unit) to the right of the drum and the belt. You need a special tool that fits into the little holes in the ring retainer, I got it at Lowe's ($20 +/-). It is a Channellock plier that opens when you squeeze, you have to change the points (comes with it).
So, here is the squence: remove the front panel, disconnect the swhitch (it took some pulling), set aside; remove front drum assembly (only four screws looking at you) and it comes right out; the Drum is light and comes right out as well, it just sits in a dry channel. The belt will fall off.... take the retainer ring off the roller with the special tool... remove roller and replace with new washers (one on either side) replace the ring retainer (recommend getting new one) with same tool. If you remove the small panel in the back of the washer it is very eassy to replace the belt.... I did replace it although the old one looked almost new .. instructions and a diagram come with the parts you buy here by the way... which they should say... place belt on drum per instructions (solid side down), put belt inside the chanell on drum (it will climb to the correct position by itself) put on drum front cover to hold drum in place, and then sting belt on pulley from the back of the dryer. (diagram comes with belt otherwise look at it before taking off the drum) Replace front panel (after reconnecting switch) and you are off (if you want to test without the front panel you have to touch the switch wires to each other (use tape) and do not do plugged in...
After much anxiety but not that much work the dryer runs great and is as quiet as new.... I took the parts off before ordering by the way.... the order came within three days... I am happy to have PartSelect.com .. Maytag had not clue this model even existed.... Thanks
I first found out how to open the front ... Read more (only two screews on the underneath part of the front cover) and opened it to hear the noise, (just put the cover to one side while still connected to the door switch),,,,, sprayed some WD40 all over the place and the noise went away temporarily (DO NOT DO THIS as the oil will burn off on top of heater unit and smell and smoke). I replaced the roller that the drum sits on (above the heating unit) to the right of the drum and the belt. You need a special tool that fits into the little holes in the ring retainer, I got it at Lowe's ($20 +/-). It is a Channellock plier that opens when you squeeze, you have to change the points (comes with it).
So, here is the squence: remove the front panel, disconnect the swhitch (it took some pulling), set aside; remove front drum assembly (only four screws looking at you) and it comes right out; the Drum is light and comes right out as well, it just sits in a dry channel. The belt will fall off.... take the retainer ring off the roller with the special tool... remove roller and replace with new washers (one on either side) replace the ring retainer (recommend getting new one) with same tool. If you remove the small panel in the back of the washer it is very eassy to replace the belt.... I did replace it although the old one looked almost new .. instructions and a diagram come with the parts you buy here by the way... which they should say... place belt on drum per instructions (solid side down), put belt inside the chanell on drum (it will climb to the correct position by itself) put on drum front cover to hold drum in place, and then sting belt on pulley from the back of the dryer. (diagram comes with belt otherwise look at it before taking off the drum) Replace front panel (after reconnecting switch) and you are off (if you want to test without the front panel you have to touch the switch wires to each other (use tape) and do not do plugged in...
After much anxiety but not that much work the dryer runs great and is as quiet as new.... I took the parts off before ordering by the way.... the order came within three days... I am happy to have PartSelect.com .. Maytag had not clue this model even existed.... Thanks
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Initially the dryer made a loud rumble during startup, It progressed until the noise was continuous during operation.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Ontario, NY
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Because of the nature of the noise, and knowing nothing of appliance repair, I assumed that there was a loose belt. I figured that the belt would be accessible from the rear of the machine. After much disassembly, I discovered that the belt was in fine shape and not the problem. But every time I spun the drum, I could still hear the ru
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mbling sound. Eventually, I discovered that the from paned of the dryer is the easiest to remove. Once I removed that, I discovered the blower fan housing. A few screws later and I could see that the plastic fan center was worn out. I had a part number so I simply did a quick internet search and found several sites that stocked it. PartSelect had the best price and the best shipping prices as well. I placed the order on Saturday afternoon. I got the confirmation immediately, and the shipping information on Monday. On Wednesday the part was waiting at my door! It took about 15 minutes to re-assemble the dryer and now, about 18 loads later, it's perfect!
Thank you PartSelect!!!!
Joe G
Thank you PartSelect!!!!
Joe G
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Blower wheel stripped
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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john from North Liberty, IA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
opened the front with 2 screws, removed 4 screws to access blower, removed spring clamp and split ring, pulled off old part and replaced with new and put back together.
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Broken belt
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Crawfordsville, IN
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
There were two screws to remove the front of the dryer. Then 4 screws to remove the front drum support. Remove the drum. Then one nut each on changing the back drum support rollers. Assemble the drum and front support in reverse, and door front, don't forget to put the new drive belt ovre the drum. Then from the rear panel opening, o
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ne screw to change the idler assembly. Easy
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Part access but easy solution!
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Amy from POCATELLO, ID
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Overall, the repair was pretty easy. I'm a 52 year old woman who has never done drier repair. I replaced both front glides, both drum support roller wheels, the idler pulley wheel and the tumbler and motor belt. Including vacuuming out the inside of dryer and washing down the inside and outside of dryer with cleaning wipes, the whole proj
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ect took me 2 hours. (if done individually, time would have been 20-30 minutes). You must have correct tools, so I did have to purchase two tools that I didn't have. My only suggestion in replacing the idler pulley wheel and the tumbler/motor belt would be to take the small access panel off the back of the dryer for easier access to the parts.
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Dryer Barrel was not turning
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Frank from HAWTHORNE, NJ
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Looked in one of the back removable panels and saw the broken belt. Took the machines front panel off per a You Tube video and saw the repair was simple but too the time to vacuum out a large amount of Lint Debris that had accumulated over the past 34 years all over the inside of the machine which is dangerous.. After cleaning it all up I
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simply put the new belt on and put everything back together and it all works nicely again!
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blower fan central stem broke off. was making a bad noise.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from EASTPOINTE, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Socket set
We had trouble getting the front of the dryer off; we tried to pry the top off. It works better if you remove the screws at the bottom of the front panel ;) Once we had the front off, we used a 1/4" ratchet wrench to take the front off the fan housing. We took off the compression clamp off easily with a pair of priers. Removing the retain
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er clip was harder; we ddn't have the right tool. We removed the broken fan. We ordered the part, easy peasy, from this website. Had to buy a $9 tool to put the retainer washer back on. We reassembled the fan housing and put the fron back on. It worked! Total cost: ~$30.00. Actual time (excluding waiting for parts and buying tools): 2 hours.
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hole in filter
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from WESTCHESTER, IL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
took out old and placed in new
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front glides wore out
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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james from WOODBURN, IN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed instruction video
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Dryer was noisy and stalling. Taking twice as long to dry clothes and using more electricity
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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RIchard from New Era, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had my oldest son who was home from college help me. We removed the front face of the dryer and put the unit on it's back. We removed the door switch and the blower unit. I didn't get a good look at how the belt was routed when we removed the drum but was able to figure it out when we put it back together. Not only was the belt fray
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ed and dry rotted, the blower squirrel cage was free-wheeling on the shaft. I found a tab of metal I was able to insert in the flat of the shaft between the cage bushing and the shaft and I put the squeeze ring and snap ring back in place. We also discovered the source of much of the rattling noise we had grown accustomed to was actually change pieces trapped under the drum ribs. We removed them and put the ribs back in place and we installed the new belt and figured out how the belt routed around the shaft and tensioning pulley. We cleaned all the trapped lint out of the dryer and reassembled the unit. It now works like new. Thanks!
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