MDE10CSACL Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the MDE10CSACL
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Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Dryer Barrel was not turning
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from HAWTHORNE, NJ
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Looked in one of the back removable panels and saw the broken belt. Took the machines front panel off per a You Tube video and saw the repair was simple but too the time to vacuum out a large amount of Lint Debris that had accumulated over the past 34 years all over the inside of the machine which is dangerous.. After cleaning it all up I simply put the new belt on and put everything back together and it all works nicely again!
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Blower wheel stripped
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from North Liberty, IA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
opened the front with 2 screws, removed 4 screws to access blower, removed spring clamp and split ring, pulled off old part and replaced with new and put back together.
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Broken belt
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Crawfordsville, IN
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
There were two screws to remove the front of the dryer. Then 4 screws to remove the front drum support. Remove the drum. Then one nut each on changing the back drum support rollers. Assemble the drum and front support in reverse, and door front, don't forget to put the new drive belt ovre the drum. Then from the rear panel opening, o ne screw to change the idler assembly. Easy
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Initially the dryer made a loud rumble during startup, It progressed until the noise was continuous during operation.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Ontario, NY
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Because of the nature of the noise, and knowing nothing of appliance repair, I assumed that there was a loose belt. I figured that the belt would be accessible from the rear of the machine. After much disassembly, I discovered that the belt was in fine shape and not the problem. But every time I spun the drum, I could still hear the ru mbling sound. Eventually, I discovered that the from paned of the dryer is the easiest to remove. Once I removed that, I discovered the blower fan housing. A few screws later and I could see that the plastic fan center was worn out. I had a part number so I simply did a quick internet search and found several sites that stocked it. PartSelect had the best price and the best shipping prices as well. I placed the order on Saturday afternoon. I got the confirmation immediately, and the shipping information on Monday. On Wednesday the part was waiting at my door! It took about 15 minutes to re-assemble the dryer and now, about 18 loads later, it's perfect!
Thank you PartSelect!!!!
Joe G
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Dryer was sweaking and rumbling. Found tub support roller and shaft had failed bushing.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glenn from Lewisport, KY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My wife had to help me due to a recent back surgery that I had.

1. Disconnet power. Then if you have room, slide dryer away from wall far enough to tilt it slightly back. We had to do this to remove the two lower front panle philips head scres due to my screwdriver length. If you have a stubby, then you don't need to do this. R emove by pulling out on bottom until the two clips at top disengage from dryer top panel.
2. We removed the four 1/4" head sheet metal screws that hold the front tub support panel (with lint screen). Be carefull of wiring. One moisture sensor wire has to be removed from front cover on lower right side near bottom of tub opening. The remaing wires on left side are long enough to leave them attached and "swing" front panel to your left and in my case, lay it back uprite against the washer front.
3. We slid the tub forward enough to lay old belt down so I could see how it was routed around drive. I wanted to verify paperwork that came with new belt. We then set entire tub out of dryer. You might want to take it to another room if you laundry room is cramped.
4. We removed the nut from back of each support roller shaft, I believe it was 3/8 hex. Then reveresed this procedure to install the new roller and shaft. It was easier to assembly rollers before installing as a unit.
5. I removed the old belt and confirmed its length to new belt. I then installed the new belt over drive sheave and tensioner.
6. We then installed the tub and worked belt around it while keeping it on the drive sheave and tensioner pulley. Had to kind of stick my head into tub to start belt unto it.
7. We checked tub front and rear felt seals and I would recomment\d changing these if your dryer is older than 10 years, we did not have then so kept old ones.
8. We replaced the front tub support and installed the four sheet metal screws.
9. We replaced the front cover and installed the two lower philips head screws.
10. Re-connected power and tested operation.
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Dryer was noisy and stalling. Taking twice as long to dry clothes and using more electricity
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RIchard from New Era, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had my oldest son who was home from college help me. We removed the front face of the dryer and put the unit on it's back. We removed the door switch and the blower unit. I didn't get a good look at how the belt was routed when we removed the drum but was able to figure it out when we put it back together. Not only was the belt fray ed and dry rotted, the blower squirrel cage was free-wheeling on the shaft. I found a tab of metal I was able to insert in the flat of the shaft between the cage bushing and the shaft and I put the squeeze ring and snap ring back in place. We also discovered the source of much of the rattling noise we had grown accustomed to was actually change pieces trapped under the drum ribs. We removed them and put the ribs back in place and we installed the new belt and figured out how the belt routed around the shaft and tensioning pulley. We cleaned all the trapped lint out of the dryer and reassembled the unit. It now works like new. Thanks!
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replace idler pully and belt
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ellison from LAKE PLACID, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After viewing repair video I used those instructions, after removing drum place new belt on drum, I used scotch tape to hold belt in place, tape belt with 2 inch strip about every foot around drum, leave extra belt that connects to drive motor folded down and taped to drum. After installing drum connect belt to drive motor and roll drum t o remove tape. This will keep belt from sliding out of place on drum while installing.
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squeaky sound when drying
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Sherman, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed front panel and tumbler, replaced roller axle,
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.
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Blower wheel worn replaced belt became it looked worn
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from NEW CASTLE, DE
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Fallowed instructions on YouTube
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Rumbly noise
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tima from Pomfret Center, CT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed the front panel (two screws at bottom, then lifted bottom toward me until the top holders slid out). Then I unscrewed the front assembly that holds the dryer drum (four screws), first propping the drum from below so it would stay in place. I removed the blower housing (seven screws) and could see that the blower wheel was loose on the spindle. The 'D' shaped fitting had rounded out. A pair of snap ring pliers made removing the retaining ring and the wheel clamp a cinch and saved a good deal of teeth gnashing. I slid on the new blower wheel and then did everything in reverse. One caution: be sure the drum is pushed firmly up and back when reattaching the front assembly. (It can be done successfully with two hands). I had to re-do this part of the reassembly because the bottom of the drum was rubbing against the blower assembly. Once that was corrected, the dryer ran noiselessly. Thank goodness for PartSelect's diagrams. They're invaluable.
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Dryer rattled in operation
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Mentor, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug the dryer. Remove two screws to remove the front drum housing. Remove 4 screws to remove the front drum housing. The front panel and front drum housing do not need to be unwired to work on the blower. Loosen wire harnesses and move panel and housing out of the way. Remove 2 spring clips holding the blower assembly to the motor shaft. Remove blower. Install new blower and re-assemble in the reverse order. The other stories written on the subject were spot on. This repair also made the clothes dry more quickly. I did not realize that long before the ryer made noise, there was a reduction in air flow. A simple vacuum switch to monitor air flow would tell you when there is a problem or that the filter/duct needs to be cleaned.
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front glides wore out
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • james from WOODBURN, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed instruction video
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hole in filter
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from WESTCHESTER, IL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
took out old and placed in new
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dryer not getting hot enough
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RON from VIENNA, VA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
my son did the installation according to your excellent video instructions
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Rumbling when dryer was running and also for about 5 seconds after dryer stopped
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Gibraltar, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Removed the two lower screws holding front of dryer assembly in place and "unhinged" it and stood it up on floor. Then I unclipped the two wire leads on inside of dryer door assembly and moved assembly completely out of work area. Next I removed the four screws holding the tumbler frame in place and removed that frame from the work area. Now you can access the blower wheel "frame" and remove 5 or 6 hex screws to get that off and out of your way. You DO NOT have to remove the dryer drum and/or drum belt to complete this repair, so save yourself some work and leave it in place!! Once the blower wheel frame is off, use pliers and a flatheaded screwdriver to get the small outer retaining clip off, and then just pliers to get the wheel retaining ring off the wheel shaft. Put on the new blower wheel, use pliers to replace the aforementioned wheel retaining ring, and then the small outer retaining clip...VIOLA! You're finished! Dryer will run like new with a smooth purr instead of that dreaded rumbling sound.
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All Instructions for the MDE10CSACL
121 - 135 of 797