MAV8260AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Just installed the valve 7-18-2010.
Removed electrical plug from the wall and closed the water supply valve. Removed supply hoses. Had to use pliers to get into recessed connections. Bad design. Raised lid using narrow putty knife to release clips under lid on corners. Removed connectors from solonoids, marking their positions, and set aside wires to prevent pinching or slicing them accidentally. Opened chute by depressing tabs on both sides. Removed the only screw in the water chute on left side and depressed the tab beneath other side to slide chute off. Removed single screw on left side holding valve bracket and slid bracket out of slot on right side. Removed screw from bracket holding valve in place. Reversed order to reassemble.
This is the second valve replaced in this five year old Maytag along with one transmission at two and one half years old. This new valve appears to be leaking through at this writing but I'm running the washer through a cycle to see if it will then seal tight. Will post follow up if possible.
P.S. Valve is holding as of 8-5-2010.

Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

Very simple, Lid cam part was broken, Just need to remove broken plastic lid cam with screwdriver and then snap in place the new piece. Worked like a charm first time. Easy , inexpensive repair to a reliable washing machine. Bill

took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done

On this particular model #MAV7550AWW Maytag washer, you do not remove a back panel since it is a three sided case. I first disconnected power and hoses from wall. Removed the belt from under the machine (you need to tilt the machine). To access the water pump you need to remove the front panel by first sliding a putty knife between the top of the machine and the panel slide it in about 2 inches from the edge to release the latch, repeat the procedure on the other side. On the inside or the panel about 2 inches there is a nut on either side once you remove both the front panel unlatches easily, from the bottom two latches. The water pump is located on the right front of the bottom plate. it is held in by three nut screws, (have plenty of towels to catch the water that is released once you disconnect the two hoses that are on the pump. The replacement part (made in the USA) is all plastic but fits perfectly. We Replaced the pump and reconnected everything. There is a video here on this site the explains in detail the removal and placement of the drive belt. The job is very simple to do. I am a woman under 5ft and I did this repair with the help of my son (17yr old). The machine is good as new. Second repair I have done on the machine and with a lot of savings!.

first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

Simple remove and replace. Plastic cam and hinges simply snap out, replacement parts snap right back in. Needle nose pliers were helpful to remove broken lid cam. With hinges and lid removed, took advantage of great opportunity to clean lid and and top of washer.

Removed damaged pulley installed new pullley and clutch. The directions made it easy. Aligned pulley as detailed and installed new front feet and tested washer. Took me about 30 minutes to repair. Washer has been working since. Thanks guys for a nice no nonsense package.

I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.

I removed the screws to loosen the belt, took off the old belt and put on the new belt. Tightened it up and has been working ever since.

Thank you, Lester

you guys ship faster than anyone else. One day I order the part and a day or two later there it is. :)

Diconnected water lines, layed washer on its side, spun pulleys and pulled belt off at the same time, put the belt on in the same way. VERY simple

I think normally the problem is caused by the Brake Rotor Lining Assy (item #50 on the diagram). It has a brake lining facing down that makes contact with item # 51. It turned out that I had grease & grime on these parts, thus the brake is not taking grip & causing squeaky noise. All I had to do was to clean the parts & put them back. I bought the part (#50) - P/N 2347192, but it was a whirlpool part that didn't fit my Magic Chef. Some parts fit both brands, but this 1 didn't. Here is the procedure:

1. Unplug washer.
2. Move unit away from wall.
3. Tilt it back far enough to work underneath. Support the front with lumber.
4. Pull out cap (#58)
5. Remove ring clip (#57)
6. slide out everything from #53 down. Keep them in same order for re-installation.
7. There are 6 ea screws (#53) that hold item #52 to item #45. It is spring loaded by item #47. Item #53 has a 5/16" hex head. Use 3 ea. #10-24 hex head screw, at least 1.25" long to assist in compress/decompress the spring tension. You can buy them from a hardware store.
8. Take out every other screw (#53) & replace them with these 3 longer screws for remove/re-installation of item #52.
9. Take out the remaining 3 ea #52 screws.
10. Go around & back off each of the 3 longer screws to decompress the spring.
11. Remove item #52, & everything from #48 down will come out.
12. Clean or replace what you need.
13. Do the reverse to put everything back.
14. There is an item within #59 that looks like a miniature bearing. I would put some grease on that & on item #55.

Pulled wahser away from wall, unpluged, removed screws from rear access panel, removed hoses from water pump, used towell to absorb excess water still in pump and hoses, removed drive belt, removed screws securing pump, removed old pump replaced it with new pump, cussed a little when replacing hoses, repeated steps in reverse order, checked for leaks.

Replace the motor in 25 minutes, my repair guy said it was not worth the time , I got this motor for less than $150. And save my self over $600.00, this was incredible.