MAV7550AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Noise loudest during spin cycle. Wash cycle showed transmission was ok. Pump shaft loose in housing. Fix was just as described. Tip washer up, lift belt from pulley on pump. Remove rear panel access. Remove hoses. Un-bolt pump. New pump does not have metal base plate, it fits directly to base of washer. Bolt new pump to base in same orientation, attach hoses, tip washer up and slide belt back on to pulleys. Move belt by hand to check function. Reconnect washer to utilities and begin fill. Check for leaks at hoses. Replace rear panel cover.

Removed excess water,removed hoses,tiped back washer,removed belt,removed pulley and bearing. Removed 3 screws and replaced with 3 longer screws in the stator,then removed 3 shorter screws. Then loosen very slowly each of longer screws to relieve pressure from the brake spring. Once loose,pulled out brake rotor. Replaced with new parts. Works like new.

I tilted machine onto the front to acces the rear panel. i removed the three screws to expose pump, took of the drive belt located under appliance, removed the three pump screws and removed old defective pump. I installed new pump, put the drive belt back on, reinstalled back panel and screws, hooked the appliance up and started. Been running great ever since. Entire process too about 10 min.

Removed 1 screw with 5/16'' nutdriver on lower area of agitator and unit slipped off spline like butter. Replaced with new unit and simply tightened the holding screw. Repair Dude wanted 179.50 for this repair. I saved over $100.00 doing this myself. Cool.

There are two clips that hold the top of the washer down. Releasing these clips allows you to lift the top; it is hinged at the back. Then remove two screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel. The tub to pump hose is easily accessible. It is held in place by a hose clamp at each end. Use pliers to squeeze the clamps and remove the hose. Replace with new hose. I re-used the original clamps.

The washing machine would shake very loudly when spinning.
Found red oil under machine. Asked experts, they said "buy new machine, not worth repairing transmission".
replaced small oil seal and drilled small hole and added some transmission oil(auto) then sealed hole. replaced belt just because the other one was oil soaked.
Works great, Like new, cheap fix under $20..

Remove front panel and back service panel below water conn. lines. Put a 4" plastic box between the tub and inside of cabinet "directly opposite the spring to be removed to lower the tub to base for less opposing travel to unlatch spring from tub hook. Also took an old slotted screw driver w/ a blade about 1/4 " and grinded 1/8 from middle about an1/8" deep and used it to latch the spring when pushing it up and off the tub. Replaced all 6. Also did motor pivot spring. Tested and the it worked for one cycle, then the tub again just falls to the right as if the spring at 9 o'clock was broke and strains the belt drive but the spin cycle still works o.k. and the washer does not bang and walk away till you stop the machine. Thought the 6 tub springs would take care of both problems. Told that the snubber ring needs to be replaced. Never but another maytag again. JUst did the belt,a week later the water pump went then the springs.....

Other peice broken or worn out. Poped old one off and new one in......YAHOO!! back to washing clothing again......

The hardest part of this is the springs. The best way to disconnect and reconnect was to tilt the tub towards the spring I was trying to work on (thus putting less tension on the spring and cutting down the distance). I took a large boot and jammed it into the oposite side wall to hold it in a tilted position before I disconnected the spring and then redid that to reconnect using a vice grip wrench. I replaced all three things, snubber, brake roto and stator and it went back together very easily. The key on the pully shaft was hard to reattach but there was a trick to that as well. The shaft has to move up slightly to slide ring on so you need to have something under the tub to help raise it. After that was back together it was 15 mins. to finish and now the washer is running like new.

Remover agitator/Auger assembly. Install new agitator/auger assembly. Washer still would not agitate. Called repairman and found the transmission was bad. Fortunately transmission was still under warranty. 10 year warranty on transmission.

I opened the front of the machine. The clips had rusted. One broke and the others were very difficult to work with. I pried the panel open with a large screwdriver. I took the back panel off to access the water pump. I removed the back panel on the electricals to access the timer. To replace the timer I pried off the decorative cover. To get the knob off you have to squeeze in on the timer split shaft while pulling out on the know. This was the second hardest part. (The front panel access was the most difficult). After that the timer clip is easy to loosen and it slides a littel then pops out. Electrical connection was obvious. The motor sping was the next most difficlt part. The spring fits on the rear part of the motor which is most easily accessed through the rear panel used for replacing the water pump. The water pump has three screws holding it and two hose clamps that come off easily with a pair of pliers. Before removing the water pump, I had to tip up the machine and take the belt off. This was also pretty easy. Put it back together and works great again on all cycles.

Ordered a new replacement agitator, removed the old agitator with the loosening of set screw on the base of agitator, which slips over the gear spline and installed the replacement agitator, tighten the set screw with nut driver, OH, you have to use the fabric softener cup, which snaps off the old agitator and install it on the new agitator. Wha-la!

Removed upper back cover to expose the timer, the whole panel could then be tipped foward which made it easy to work on.
Removed the dial knob on front by popping off the cover then pryed up a smaller plastic button used to hold the knob in place.......knob slid off.
Disconnected wire harness from the switch.......had to pry up the snap tab that holds it in place.
Had to remove a small electrical board attached to the back of the timer......used screwdriver to pop it up and out (gently).
Removed one hold-down screw, lifted a little lock-tab and slid the unit to the left and lifted out and replaced.
I'm sure I forgot something.........but the whole thing was pretty easy to figure out .

I did what anyone could do, remove the screws and replace the part. The part just came apart during installation. If I were Maytag, I would replace the part free of charge.

Found a website that showed how to open the lid. Lifted the lid and checked the solenoids. When hot was disconnected, got cold only. Multimeter showed hot was being continuously energized regardless of temperature selector switch position. Removed back (5 or 6 screws) and found the circuit diagram. Studied it and determined that the switch or analog card had to be the problem. Took digital pictures of everything to aid in replacing wires pulled for trouble shooting. Pulled temp selector switch (pushed in a couple of tabs). Disassembled switch and checked all contacts. Working fine. Nothing left but the temperature board. Determining correct revision was difficult. Found a website that said, "first numbers of serial are revision number. Pick card with highest revision number lower than your model." Replaced card and everything worked as designed. Every wire was labeled and every wire bayonet was labeled so I didn't need the pictures, but I felt better having them.