MAH4000BWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).

Followed the troubleshooting procedure that came with the
washer.Found problem,(with a little help from my experience
in electronics). Order motor and control board kit.
Followed the easy instructions that came with parts and
had it working in no time!!!!
Good job PartSelect !!!!

Opened a small door in the rear of the washer and loosen the two braces with a screw driver and pulled the old hose and replaced with the new hose replace the door and that was all.

The machine comes quickest appart with a cordless screwgun and a #2 Phillips.

To unhook the wire with spring it is easiest to use a needle nose plier and make a hook from a coat hanger or use a paint can opener.

Pay attention when yo line up the boot with the flange in the back, that the rectagular protrusions line up with the holes in the flange. You may have to stretch the boot a bit and push it all the way in with a dull tool.

Get someone to help you put the wire back on if you want to do it fast and easy. Otherwise hook it on the spring and get the pliers on the loop on the other side and pull it together, torquing the wire back so that it does not make the boot slip fo the flange.

Done

Had to move all the concoctions my wife uses on my greasy work clothes [ purple power, dawn dishwash soap,lestoil, etc..] Removed front , removed back panel..Replaced board then motor..Replaced belt while I was in there.I had already changed out the tub bearing assembly earlier..Quite a complex machine when you get in that deep..Runs like new...

Removed old motor installed new motor.

I removed the screws around the front door. Then removed the front face. I removed the bolts holding the top down at front top corners. I removed the detergent dispensor. Next I removed the spring and hold down cable. I then pulled out the old boot. I then, with the help of my son, pulled the new boot around the drum. Then attached the cable and spring. Next pushed the boot into the front retainer. I then put the dispenser in and the front back on. Good as new. It was not hard as long as you have someone to help with pushing the boot around.

Removed old broken plastic grommet's and installed two new plastic grommet's. Attached new baffle using old screws. Used a short piece of picture frame wire to install the two new grommets by fishing them into place with out removing the washer drum.

1) Removed machine front by removing four (4) screws. 2) Removed rear access panel. 3) Replaced antiquated motor controller with upgade revision; basically unplug and plug 4) replaced motor and 5) closed up unit. Whole job took about an hour with half the time spent moving the unit to work oo.

got instructions off internet from others who did same repair; after taking inner basket out, used drift to remove outer bearing; seal was difficult to remove but used drift to force innner bearing into seal and seal popped out. had help reinstalling inner basket into outer basket.

Had to remove the tub. Tha bearings had to be removed from the drum. After installing the new bearings(which are available @ O'rReilly's) the seal was't bad

First ya have to find the problem that takes time.
Pulled the front off via the four screws, two on the door and two on the opp side. Removed the two top hold down brackets that hold the top on (on the front), popped out the four screws for the detergent and the top hinged up, The hose was right there. Removed the two hose clamps, found the crack ordered if from you guys.(very fast) slapped it in and put a load in.

We took the washer completely apart. Replaced the bearings, pulley and
belt. We decided to replace anything that involved the spinning cycle while we had it all apart.
It was well worth the time and effort we put into it. It works like a chime
and is very quiet . Silence is golden ! Hopefully it will work another 18 years.

Replaced the water valve, but that was not the problem. Problem was a burned out control circuit board caused when the machine's door lock (wax motor) failed. Failure of this $20 part destroyed the circuit board ($200). Beware! Check these other items before replacing the valve.

I took the door off, front panel, soap dispenser(to lift the top out of the way)and took off the cross braces on the front of the machine. I pealed the door bellows off and took the drain hose apart; there was much gunk and debris to clean out...maybe something here was clogged? Removed all the snap clips and took the front of the tub off;the tub seal seemed good, but lots of grime/gunk build up.I cleaned all surfaces, put the new tub seal on,and put it all back togther. The hardest part was working the snap clips back on; I worked a few on both sides, top and bottom, and then filled in the rest. The machine has been working fine for a month now, no leaks:)