MAH3000AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Everything went smoothly enough until I reached the tension spring issue...It is definitely a two person job (that part, al least) It may be helpful to add that to the video...otherwise, the repair went well as I followed the video completely

The motor isolators went in with no problem ,but the drive belt went on very tight , your how to video shows how. Easy the belt went on , when I called your store I was told that is the only size belt for the machine model mah5500bww,
Thank you Bill

Beat on spline shaft until I gave up and trashed the washer. Bought new washer.

Replace front legs. Very easy fix.

I looked on Utube at some videos which helped a lot all told i replaced the bearings in the outer hub which was quite a chore as the bearings came out rather hard I used a steel rod about 18 inches long and a heavy hammer to pound the old bearings out they came out hard then I put the new bearings in very carefully as I had to tap them back into place and installed the seal and put the new shaft on the tub and slid everything back into place. The instructions that came with the new seal and shaft were very helpful I bought the new bearings from local implement dealer as they were not available with the shaft and seal didn't keep track of my hours probably about 21/2 to 3 hours

I removed top control panel and then the old power cord that been damaged by a small fire and the just attached the new power cord and control panel. Unblievably simple and I saved myself a lot of money. Where I live in a NYC suburb this type of simple repair could easily cost $100.

The old lid had come off. Just to spruce up a bit, I removed the bezel with the 4 screws. I cleaned up the surface of the washer and the bezel. I put the bezel back on. I put on the new lid. Took 10 minutes to do what I did. If all I had to do was replace the lid, it would have taken less than 3 minutes.

removed one panel and front door to access under tub.leak solved!!!! thanks

It was easy as 1,2,3. Took the old knob apart and replaced it with new one. About 20 minutes.

With a torn boot on this front load washer, (nails in the pocket of my jeans) water leaked out on the floor with every wash. I knew it would cost a fortune to get fixed, so I decided to try it myself. I can take anything apart!
I heard of Parts Select.com from a friend and checked it out. With their help, I found the model and part and just ordered it. It was easy!
When the part arrived, I was obligated then to do something!
Since this is a stack unit, with the dryer on top, I thought I would take the dryer off and try the repair from the top. But there was no way that dryer was coming off! I tryed every screw and it wouldnt budge.
So I saw two screws in the front and started in on the washer below. I was careful to make notes on how I took this machine apart so I could put it back together!
I got down to the drum with a spring close guywire that holds the boot tight to the drum. It came off easily and I took the old torn boot off and put the new boot in place.
The tough part was getting that guywire and tight spring back on! The lip that holds the boot to the drum is very shallow and the book would not stay on all the way around and allow me to string the guy wire around in the little channel without coming off. FRUSTRATING!
I improvised and used duct tape to tape the boot to the drum to keep it in place so I could string that wire around. Man, did that take some doing!
I managed to get that wire around with the help of the duct tape, but the second big challenge was putting the spring on, as it was under alot of tension. It was tough to puuuuuullllll it together without pulling the boot out of the channel I had to duct tape it into!
By the grace of the Almighty, some prayer and some cussing (forgive me Lord), I got the spring into the rings on both ends of the guy wire. VICTORY!
Putting the boot front back in is easy, just put it into the holes that receive the projections under the front of the boot. No problem.
After all that, putting the washer all back together was a cinch!
And....
IT WORKS!!
I did it! No more leak! No expensive fix it job!
I did it myself, am prouder than heck!
Oh.....
No more Nails in the jean pockets!

Disconnect power. Remove back panel. Use shop vac to remove water from drum. You can also remove one of the agitator fins from the drum (uses 2 TORX screws) to gain access to inner tub drain hole to remove additional water with shop vac and check for obstructions. Remove power wires from pump, noting position of each. Place towel near pump and disconnect input and output hoses. Rotate pump to disengage from slots in base, and remove. Installation is reverse.

Removing the gasket was very easy. A couple hints on installing (1) attach the gasket to the drum first!! this is the trickiest part but once you get it on, attaching the cable and spring was fairly easy (just used two people and a pair of needle nose pliers). Once you get that on, "lube" up the other side with soap to make install easier.

Very easy.I used a screw driver to remove and install the new hinges. Three screws on each hinge. Door closes like new again.

My husband completed the repair by himself. He said that the "string trick" was helpful.

Removed back cover to gain access to the pump. Disconnect two wires to the pump. Remove hose clamps on inlet and outlet of pump and rotate pump to the left to remove. Installation is the reverse. I would also remove the large discharge hose from the bottom of the drum to make sure you don't have any debris at the inlet of the pump. My pump had a dime, and a bobby pin stuck in it. It was the bobby pin that over time penetrated the pump housing that caused the leak. I ordered the pump with the normal ground rate on a Thursday evening and had the pump it in hand around noon on Saturday. Couldn't ask for better service. The part was an exact factory replacment.