LWC202 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I attempted to fix it about a year ago. Took apart the screen center stem and water spinner.
I could not find anything wrong. The machine was used very infrequently over the years. Recently my wife approached me again to fix it and knowing I didn't find any thing the first time: I took the lower panel strip off and found the translucent belt broken. I found your site matched up a belt size and ordered it. Three days later it arrived, I installed it and everything seems to work. The water drains and I'm back in business. It was so easy I was embarrassed I did not fix it the first time.

I pulled the dishwasher out & watch it complete 1 cycle : water was leaking at a through hole used to secure the upper dish rack roller to the cabinet : the nut & seal holding the roller was loose allowing water to drip down the outside of the cabinet under the insulation.: water dripped onto the belt causing belt to slip : many water marks around the pump ; as a precaution i replaced the pump bottom seal & the pump to chassis gasket : I also checked the other 3 rolles ; replaced cracked top flange & installed a more flexable water supply hose .

I had already loosened the motor from inside the tub....so it was fairly easy to wrap the new belt around the motor/pulley system.... even though the old broken belt was 2 inches longer than the new belt(probably as a result of age and use, but the new belt is obviously the right size!) Once in place, I did have to take some care in screwing down the seal from inside being as it wanted to go more to one side than the other from the pressure of the tight belt, but all in all, it wasn't so bad. Unfortunately for me when I put the dishwasher on, I thought the dirty water problem would go away, but I soon learned that I also had a clog in the plumbing. I guess I'll never know if one thing caused the other or it was just 2 things going wrong at the same exact time. But everything is perfect now. Also, the part I ordered was at my doorstep in less than 36 hours!!!! That's fantastic!

Getting the new belt installed is a bit tricky; it seems too small to span the pump and drive pulleys.

Nevertheless, start with the belt positioned in the drive pulley and stretch it so one side fits into the slot of the pump pulley. Using both hands, crank the pulley over until the belt "rolls" into place. It may take several tries as the workspace tends to be rather tight. Good luck.

Removed bottom front panel with nutdriver,rolled old belt off rolled new belt on and applied belt grease that came with new belt.New belt came with instructions that were exactly right for belt installation. Thank You Danny Hammons

Removed the lower Front panel, removed the (2) hoses from the Pump Assembly, Removed the Plastic Sprayer Recirculating Tube, than removed the (6) screws that hold the pump assembly in the washer basin, removed the assembly from the unit.
Disassembled the pump unit (6) screws, removed and replaced the (2) water impellers and bottom seal, reassembled everything and all is well. This machine is 22 years old and my local parts supplier said that parts were no longer available for it because of its age, well I have news for him PartSelect.com has any part I need!

First I shut off the water intake. Then disconnected it from the valve assembly. Then disconnected the hose on the other side of the valve assembly. Then removed and replaced the valve assembly, disconnecting and re-connecting the 4 wires attached to the 2 solenoids. Then re-connected the water intake and hose. Then turned the water back on.

Then, noticing it leaking slightly, had to do it all over and include a small amount of teflon tape on the brass fitting that screwed into the valve assembly.

Phew.

Remove bottom cover.
Put the belt on the large pulley and stretch it about 5 times to make it larger. Remove the belt from the large pulley and put it on the small pulley at the motor. Stretch it to left side of the large pulley and make sure the belt is on partial of the pulley's groove then rotate the large pulley forward. The pulley will pull the belt into the groove by itself.

Belt seemed too small at first to fit, but turning the power module pulley while holding the belt enabled it to slip in properly. Didn't help that there's not much space to work.

I removed access panle then disconected the wires, water inlet line, and water outlet line from the valve. then took the two screws that held the valve in place off and removed the old valve and replaced with the new. Its that easy. I had one problem that did'nt want to stop haunting me...water leaks at the conections. Tip: don't put access panle on untill sure there are no leaks. You might notice I had an earlier article with a float switch. It turns out that that was not the problem. This water valve was, and it works great again. Not bad for 24yrs old(yes, the dishwasher).

The Retaining Nut of my Upper Spray Arm fell off and was stripped. I was thinking I was going to have to get a new dishwasher because mine is pretty old. I found Partselect.com and plugged in my model number and it gave me all the parts. It cost me less than $10 with shipping and it saved me about $450.

First I was amazed that the belt was available for my ancient dishwasher. Then I was amazed again when it came overnight. The instructions said to stretch it over the two pulleys but my hands weren't strong enough. In a sudden flash of brilliance I decided to use a screwdriver as a lever to force it onto the second pulley. Done deal - happy home handyman.

Clip the plastic on to the vertical pieces. No tools needed

Ours is a portable with butcher top. Three screws under the front edge allow the top to be slid forward and off. Then it is obvious which screws release the old flange.

The latch hook needs to be separated from the metal strip and inserted into the front of the flange through the slot, then secured back onto the metal strip.

Don't tighten it too much until you get the thing back together. Then adjust it so the door closes tightly and make it tight. If that machine screw works loose it allows the latch to move sideways which will widen the slot--not good.

It should be checked for tightness every year unless you want to replace that plastic part again. It should have been made of metal to begin with. I'm surprised Maytag would use plastic in such a part.

Not a difficult repair unless you are a total klutz with a screwdriver.

I removed the old flange pieces before ordering the new one, then repositioned the washer after attaching the new one to the washer top. I then attached the flange to the counter top resulting in a more stable appliance. It was simple to remove the screws and install the new flange.