LAT8435AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions
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Washer will agitate, but won't spin
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.
I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.
The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.
After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.
Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.
The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.
After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.
Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
Parts Used:
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Mandie from Lewisville, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
18 of 24 people
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water kept filling until overflow
removed back of control panel to find that a mouse chewed the air tube. tried to splice it with a barb connector, it did not work. Ordered part received it 2 days later and installed it. I would recommend buying parts from these folks!
Parts Used:
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Michael from Woodside, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
16 of 20 people
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it was leaking underneath the washing machine tub
That would take forever to write in everything you have to do, but I did go to a website that had the steps you must do to complete the repair. You can google tub seal kit and mounting stem and the brand of your appliance and i'm sure you will come across the steps to complete the repair. I would advise you to first order a spanner wrench it makes the job much easier and you really can't complete the job without it. So do that first and then take the machine apart if you suspect it's a tub seal leak and then order your parts. if i had a spanner wrench available to me from the beginning it would have gone much smoother from the start.
Parts Used:
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Jason from Clinton, OK
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
14 of 14 people
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Water leak
Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.
No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.
No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).
Parts Used:
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richard from Tarzana, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
15 of 17 people
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leak at trans. stem
remove front, 2 screws hold top down, 1 screw holds adgitator on, hammer and punch to remove stem nut (clockwise) used wd40, lift tub out, hammer and punch to remove stem (clockwise), pull seal off, put liquid soap on seal and reverse process, no more leaks!!
Parts Used:
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Mike from Beachwood, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
14 of 14 people
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the motor burnt out
took washer into the garage, removed front cover & disconnected the wiring. Then i removed the motor assembly. Piece of cake to finish job.
Parts Used:
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walter from watertown, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Socket set
17 of 24 people
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unit stop working altogether a
descovered blown fuse on lid switch assembly. Checked out info on Parts Select.com they reccommended the lid switch assembly. I bought it putting it in was very easy! Problem solved!
Parts Used:
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Al from Blackwood, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
15 of 19 people
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I had water leaking out of the bottom of the washer when it was washing a load of clothes
I opened the front of the washer by removing the 2 screws on the bottom front of the washer, then swinging the front upward until it was clear of the hangers at the top. The hose sits right in front. It was cracked where it attaches to the tub. I loosened the hose clamps at the tub & the pump with a nutwrench & removed the old hose. I slid the clamps onto the new hose & put the hose on to the tub & pump. I tightened the clamps, reinstalled the front & was finished.
Parts Used:
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Paul from Lansdale, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
14 of 16 people
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Tub Cover Split And Leaking
Removed washing machine front cover (2 phillips screws on bottom half of panel). Then removed two bolts that hold the top in place. Lifted hinged top, removed tub cover which is held in place with plastic mounting tabs. That was it. Put everthing back together approx. 15 Minutes.
Parts Used:
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William from Ambler, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
14 of 17 people
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Water Leaking from underneath washer
For the most part, I followed the excellent repair advice already available on this site for installing these parts. Especially useful was the caution that the threaded pieces had "left hand" threads and to loosen them they had to be turned in a "CLOCK WISE" direction. My washer is 9 years old and due to calcium deposits on the threads, I did have some trouble with loosening the large retaining nut. I first soaked the nut for a few hours with a rag soaked with white vinegar. This removed some of the calcium but I still was unable to undo the nut. Finally, I soaked the nut overnight with penetrating oil and WD-40. The next morning I was able to loosen it using a drift punch and medium sized ball peen hammer. I only had one difficulty. Maybe it wasn't necessary to do so, but I wanted the rubber boot seal to be seated pretty close to the surface of the inner basket. This turned out to require more downward force than I would have expected even though I installed it dry, without use of any type of lubricant or soapy solution. Now, two weeks worth of washing and not a drop of water seen underneath the washer.
Parts Used:
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Rocco from Kenvil, NJ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
12 of 12 people
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leaking water under back left of washer
The first thing I did was look at the diagrams for my specific appliance on the parts select web site to locate fastners. I removed the front panel(2 screws 4" from floor on front panel), then removed the corner bolts of top panel(found under in front). Next I removed the 4 screws on the control panel (on top). I located the screw holdling the fill injector to the top Lid. Then I removed the clamp holding the unit to the regulator. Assembled the unit and placed it in position. First attaching the fill injector to top panel, then clamping the hose to regulator, then replacing 4 screws in control panel. Next the two corner screws in corners under the top panel. Replaced front panel and 2 screws. Then had a trail run and no water leaks any where.
Parts Used:
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Gregory from Louisville, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
15 of 21 people
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washer was leaking
first i removed front panel by pulling it from the bottom and then removing the top. then i removed the agitator with a 1/4 nut driver. then i had to open top lid which is hinged and held together by two 1/2 inch bolts. after i opened up the top of the washer i had to remove the white plastic top of the inner tub. in order to remove the inner tub there is a large nut that i had to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose. don't forget this nut is counterclockwise to loosen.hint use a little wd40 due to calcium build up around nut. once the inner tub is removed you should see the rubber bushing. be sure to remove all rust and water calcium build up before installing new bushing. i used a wool pad. put everything back together the way you took it apart and it should fix your leak.
Parts Used:
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jason from euless, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
14 of 19 people
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Leaking Tub Seal
The task to replace the tub seal would have been relatively easy had it not been for the need of a special spanner wrench to remove the nut securing the seal. Instead of purchasing the one time use spanner wrench which was only available on line and would have delayed my repair I elected to cut the putty metal nut off with a cutting dremel tool. This was a delecate process to ensure one did not damage anything else in the process of cutting the nut. Once complete a set screw, pipe wrench and common screwdriver, hammer and tap punch was all that was used. Easy process from removal to installation and the leak was fixed saving significant $$$ over having a "maytag repairman" perform the fix...parts select video helped describe everything and cost while not cheap was significantly less for an adept DIY customer.
Parts Used:
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jerry from haslet, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
13 of 16 people
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agitator would not work
A tension sping on the motor broke, smoking the drive belt.
step1...remove front of the washer to access spring, tip washer back & prop on short 2 x 4 board. 5 minutes
step 2... remove one end of pump belt to get new bely up to drive pulley put on belt using fingers only & replaced the end of the pump belt....2 minutes
step 3...put new spring under motor & hook one end in attaching hole on motor, reach through with pliers to grasp spring to pull end to attach spot on base...1 minute
It took longer to open up the washer front & prop it up that it took to repair it. This is a siper easy repair!
step1...remove front of the washer to access spring, tip washer back & prop on short 2 x 4 board. 5 minutes
step 2... remove one end of pump belt to get new bely up to drive pulley put on belt using fingers only & replaced the end of the pump belt....2 minutes
step 3...put new spring under motor & hook one end in attaching hole on motor, reach through with pliers to grasp spring to pull end to attach spot on base...1 minute
It took longer to open up the washer front & prop it up that it took to repair it. This is a siper easy repair!
Parts Used:
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Peter from Aurora, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
12 of 14 people
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Tub would fill but wouldn't go to next cycle.
Replaced the lid switch assembly. The pictures were very helpful. Very easy to replace. Saved at least $150 doing it myself.
Parts Used:
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bret from arvada, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
12 of 14 people
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