KSM160APSCA0 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

With a screw driver remove the screws holding the old base in place. With a flat head screw driver carefully pry and remove old mixer base. With 600 grit sandpaper clean and make smooth any burrs or rough spots in the mixer base recessed area. You can use some light grease and coat the outer edges of new mixer base and place in the now cleaned mixer base recessed area. The new base maybe a tight fit and not be fully seated in the recess. If a tight fit, place the piece of 2x4 piece of wood over the new part that is in the recess and carefully tap the base home using the sledge hammer. Check to see, if the base is fully seated. If not fully seated, tap again When fully seated replace the screws. You may have to adjust the height of the stand mixer head with mixer paddle attached for proper clearance between bowl and paddle. See your mixer manual for adjustment procedure

Went to partselect, found model number, printed blow-up of mixer. Figured out disassenbly procedure. Drove out main pin removing mixer head from stand. Save pin. Drove out pin in mixer main shaft which allowed planetary head to be removed. Save pin.
Removed stainless steel bezel to expose screws for removal of bottom half of mixer body. Removed screws and carefully separated mixer halves using two screwdrivers as prybars. Care must be exercised to prevent chipping of paint on body.
Separated body. cleaned grease from gears to find actual problem. Removed broken geartooth and grease near broken part to make sure no small broken chips remained. Removed pinion shaft assembly, drove pin from gear releasing broken pinion/shaft. Save pin/
Cleaned grease from pinion shaft assembly using mineral spirits and a small brush to reveal how part could be disassembled. Ordered part immediately on-line. Part arrived 1 business day after it was ordered.
Reversed process for replacing pinion shaft. Applied fresh grease obtained from excess already in mixer, spun pinion shaft to make sure grease was properly distributed. Reinstalled pinion shaft assembly. CAREFULLY plugged in mixer and jogged motor to make sure all was free and that mixer worked. If you can repair this mixer, you should have enough sense to do this diagonistic. Keep fingers away from all moving parts, don't touch expposed electric wires. Plug in only after making sure switch is in off position. Jog using mixer switch. Make sure mechanism is free.
Complete re-assembly by following blow-up and reversing disassembly steps. It may be good to write down you disassemblly procedure if it is possible that you won't be reassembling within a day or two.

Replaced gasket and O-ring. Problem solved. POC (Piece of Cake).

Took each area apart. Replaced the gear and reassembled it.

Used youtube movies to disassemble the mixer and found that the gear was stripped. I kept the screws in labeled ziploc baggies so I wouldn't forget which screws went where. Once the part arrived, it was very simple to replace the gear. I regreased the mixer and then reassembled. The trickiest part was how greasy everything was! It was also hard to get the pin through the beater hub - I found a video that suggested using a very slim screwdriver to thread the hole before inserting the pin. This was the most involved part replacement I've done on my own, and it was very satisfying to get my mixer back in working order!

Dismantled the mixer, took photos, and re-assembled unit.

Removed the rear cover to inspect the speed board. Replaced motor brushes and noticed the motor body nuts were loose and 1 was completely off. Cleaned up speed board and replaced the motor body nuts, tightened with nutdriver, adjusted speedboard governor screws and with new motor brushes worked like a charm. The very rough sounding motor noise was gone and the mixer has not operated so quietly ever.

I replaced the phase control board because the mixer had only
one speed and was surging. I noticed from other posts that it
is important to note the setting of the speed plate before you
remove it in order to remove the phase control board. Also be
careful removing the associated 'slip-on' terminals as it would
be easy to damage the speed plate. If I ever do this again I
will go ahead and replace the speed plate, probably the cheapest
item to replace. The operation was a success and the mixer is
back in business. Thanks.

Removed old one and replaced with new one.

Simple fix actually. UNPLUG mixer and remove the one screw on top that holds on the back. The Phase control board sits under and behind the paper insulator and "switch" assy. Remove the 4 wires with a pair of needle nose pliers, the one screw holding it to the back of the mixer and install the new one in reverse order.

Removed old plate, screwed in new plate and works like new! Was so happy I wouldn’t have to replace my 30 year old mixer.

Removed three screws and lifted out old part. replaced with new part

Repair is very straight forward. Remove the existing plate by removing the three phillip head screws. Use a regular screwdriver or knife to pop the plate off. (I cleaned the area while I was there but probably not necessary) Position the new plate with the screw holes lined up. Press down to pop the plate into position. Install original screws and tighten. You're done!

The shield works sufficiently. Note that the shield is not a continuous circle as shown in the picture. This actually can be an asset because it can be installed or disassembled without stopping the mixer of having to lift the head while running.

With the mixer being over 30 years old we believed it has going to have to be replaced. However, my husband jumped on uTube and looked at reviews for the problem. Motor was only running on high speed. Reviews said to replace the phase control board. Repair was very quick by just taking off the cover. Removing the old board and connecting the new. Mixer is working awesome once again. In such a disposable society it is great to be able to fix vs trash. Happy Baker.