KGRT500FAL0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Only one screwdriver needed for this simple repair. Unfortunately for me it did not repair my oven and a new code on the oven indicated a bigger problem with computer board.
Part Select was great to work with and accepted a return and promptly refunded me for the part.
Thank you!

Replaced damaged drawer roller: easy peasy!

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

DISCONNECTED POWER AND GAS TO THE RANGE. REMOVED 6 SCREWS FROM REAR OF THE RANGE. REMOVED THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR IN PLACE. DISCONNECTED THE LEAD FOR THE SENSOR. INSTALLED NEW SENSOR IN REVERSE ORDER. OVEN WORKING PROPERLY NOW.

Took the back off the stove, removed 2 screws, unclipped the bad sensor, clipped the new one on, put the screws back in and the back of the stove back on and that was it - 10 minutes

Remove old knobs and replace with new ones!

The nylon roller was very easy to install. Although rather pricey for what the part was, it was shipped immediately and got the job done. Took all of 5 minutes to do. I wish all my repair jobs were that easy.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

TURN OFF THE GAS SUPPLY & POWER TO THE STOVE. Disconnect the gas line & power source to the stove. Remove the complete counter top stove and place it upside down on a flat surface to enable you to remove all the surrounding small screws with a nut driver, then separate the bottom from the top accessing the retaining ring holding the ceramic electronic Ignition in place, remove the electric wire from the the old igniter. The most difficult part of the job was removing the retaining ring and installing the new ring.Job successfully completed.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Pop old one out and new one in

It didn't. The grate pads (PN# PS389174) were too small for the grate (W10311216) and wouldn't work. (PN# recommended by Whirlpool parts department) The pads were smaller in diameter and shorter. Yes I could have glued them in, but because of the size the pads would be flat in no time. The only thing I could order from KitchenAid was the total grate. I ordered the pads late December, they were backordered. I got them the 1st week of February. I tried getting through to Whirlpool by calling to see if there was something I could reorder, but no luck, couldn't through. Am I unhappy? Oh some, but I handle it. Its not the first time I have been rode hard and put away wet.

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

We actually had to get the repairman back that had repaired our microwave. Our range has the attached microwave above the range. My stovetop light worked prior to the visit. When he left, I prepared supper without the light, which did not go on. Ultimately, we had to replace the fluorscent tube, which thankfully, you had. No appliance store in a 35 mile radius did. We finally got the glass protector off, and the new tube did not go on. Back to the repairman, to tell him the new bulb did not work and that probably something happened when he visited before. He came back, found that indeed a wire had been broken when he was working on the microwave. I had indicated to him I did not expect to pay another repair bill after I had alrealy spent 117. before plus the cost of the new bulb, 22. something including shipping. He obliged and id not charge me anythink to repair the broken wire.
Now I have the old bulb for back up!!!
Thank you for having my replacement tube!!