KERC607GBT0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

No repair. I've used the new one and like the one that cracked on the wiring it works beautifully. I APPRECIATED THE VERY QUICK RESPONSE FROM YOU AS I RECEIVED IT IN ONLY 2 DAYS. THANK YOU

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

removed the worn out roller...inserted the new roller....tightened the nut...it was finished...this was without a doubt the most pleasent repair from start to finish..only took 3 days from the time i orderded the part to completing the repair...i would advise anyone to use " partselect.com" without hesitation

removed back of stove, removed 2 screws holding element, disconnected element and removed it, then reversed procedure. excellent service from part select and will use them again when needed.

In my situation, removing the control panel first required pulling the range unit forward to expose the side screws, which first required removing the screws holding down the stove (tilt prevention. Those screws are accessed by removing the bottom range drawer). Replacing the switch was a breeze. Very important to label wires before removing them from the old switch. Also, over the years, food liquids that spilled on the range top "gunked up" the front gasket seal of the control panel. Suggest cleaning the gasket as part of the repair - something a DIY should always do! Leave it better than you found it. When I removed the current switch, I could tell by looking at the LED terminal post there were burn marks which suggested there was indeed a fault in it. For about $45 I replaced a switch that would have cost over $200 for a repair person to come.

Read all others' directions and suggestions. Screw loosening spray was essential to remove the bracket holding the broken piece. Print out the blow-up showing parts from website. Read directions on removing and replacing door in original manual. Lay oven door on counter top front side up with hinges hanging over edge. I prefer a manual screwdriver - less risk of stripping screws. Start by removing screws at bottom edge. Next, side strips and then top piece with handle. Removing layers, being careful to keep them in order and turned the right way. Note the center piece of glass is held in place only by the parts around it so everything has to be tight and aligned. Put back together in reverse order with replacement glass part. My 10+ year old oven is as good as new. BTW I am a 67 year old woman.

Moved stove away from wall, cleaned ( hadn't been moved in 17 years). Disconnected Dual Broil Element, replaced with a new one, stove worked fine.

I tried taking the sensor out, but the plastic coupling behind the oven wall had melted and the melted piece was larger than the opening in the oven wall. I had to use a mini-screwdriver to chip away at the melted coupling before it would fit through the opening. That took forever...but it finally worked and the repair went quickly (15 minutes) after that.

I read all the repair stories here. They gave me the courage to try it. I pulled the oven door out and up. I placed the door HANDLE SIDE UP on a pad on a table. I removed the screws from the bottom and sides and began disassembly. First the bottom, then sides. I came apart easily, I set the insulation aside, then removed the screws and bracket holding the glass. I cleaned all the parts and glass. I replaced the glass and insulation and put it back together in reverse order. I put the drill/driver clutch on low so as not to strip any screws. I checked for tightness with a hand screwdriver. I re-attached the door to the oven by pushing both tabs into oven simultaneously. It took a couple of tries. In all, the fix It wasn't too difficult. I was able to handle it all myself except that my wife helped with cleaning the parts and glass. Now it looks like new again.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Repair was very straightforward. Based on information gathered from an earlier post about the same repair I simply removed all screws from the oven door. These were all located on the bottom edge of the door itself. Upon removal of the screws the door separated and exposed the "core" where I then had access to the hinges which were held in by one screw each. I removed the broken hinge, replaced it with the new hinge, pieced the door back together, put back all the screws, and the repair was complete.

I live in a small town in South East Colorado. We have just a Walmart and Sears and a few smaller hardware stores. I checked all of them to try to find this 25 1/2 inch Fluorescent Light Bulb, and nobody carried one. I would have had to drive 70 miles to find one. The Service of Partselect was wonderful and the bulb showed up in just 4 days. I was lost without this light. I have bought a few other items for my older appliances in the past from Partselect. com and was very happy with the service and how easy the web page is to navigate. .

finally figured it out , but instruction sheet could have shown old switch terminals & new switch terminal locations.

cut power off and placed sturdy table same height as bottom of oven in front of oven. removed trim screws. pulled oven out onto table. removed top cover and panel on left side . tested transformer to be sure it was bad. then replaced transforner

REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3