KDFM404KBS1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

After pulling the dishwasher out, I was able to determine the leak was occurring around the plastic nuts on the end of the heating element. I removed the heating element and saw that even though there were washers on the ends that protruded through the backside of the machine, they really weren't sealing the holes the element was sticking through. Looking at YouTube videos on the installation procedure, I noticed the element being installed had a sort of metal grommet permanently affixed to each end and the rubber washers were between the grommet and the dishwasher body. I ordered the new part and saw this to be when I received the new part. This grommet allowed the washer to seal the hole, once the plastic nuts were installed on the backside of the dishwasher. This seems to have stopped the leak. I don't know how the original part ever worked correctly, since the washers freely sat on the element with nothing to force them up against the body of the dishwasher and seal the holes. It may have been leaking long before I discovered the problem.

The valve has a plastic fitting to attach the the water line with a hose fitting. Was not carful enough with the original and damaged it attaching the water line. Ordered a replacement fitting. While it is possible to replace the water inlet valve without pulling the dishwasher out from the cabinet found it was easier to get at with the machine out. The video does and good job of showing the removal and replacing the valve. Easy job, don't be like me and be careful attaching the water line.

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.

Removed old part and replaced with new part

Removed broken tin row. Replaced with new tine row. Tokk less than 1 minute.

Checked drain hose and it was clear without kinks. I shut of the electrical breaker. Verified no power to washer. Removed the lower trim panel. Lowered the adjustable feet to allow me to slide my unit out. Disconnected drain hose from unit. Pulled unit from cabinet. My drain pump is located on the right bottom side when facing the door of the unit. I did not need to lay the unit on its side and have enough power cable to not have to disconnect it while still pulling the unit all the way out of the cabinet. The pump is easily accessed from the right side hidden behind insulation. Disconnected power wire from pump. Pressed down locking latch and turned pump counter clockwise removed then replaced in opposite order. I have run 3 load’s before posting this and as of now my dishwasher is functioning perfectly.

Relatively simple. Unhook electrical, water supply, and hose from drain air gap. Unscrew two screws that hold in the dishwasher and pull it out slowly making sure you do not damage the insulation.

Have a couple of towels nearby because when you tip the dishwasher on it's side some water will spill out.

Locate the old drain pump, disconnect it. Then pull the lever on the side of the pump and twist it off. Check to see if there are any materials that may be blocking the pump. Also good time to clean out the drain line.

Insert the new pump and put everything back in reverse order.
Make sure the dishwasher is level horizontally and vertically.

At first I thought I needed a new bottom rack for my dishwasher. Out of curiosity, I watched the installation video and realized that the Tine Row installed separately and that was the only part I needed. I am appreciative of being able to access that video and the money I saved. Installation took seconds to complete.

I found it best to lay the dishwasher on it's side, this makes it easier to attach a 90 degree hose fitting without cross threading the plastic fitting.

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

Just replaced it in the notches that held the rusted tine.

Inner gasket (Part # PS16221119) was angled in at the corners, so it wouldn't make a seal with the door, resulting in steam leakage and damage to adjacent cabinet door. Simply pulled out old gasket, pushed new one into track and voila, problem solved. New gasket angles out at corners, creating steam-tight seal.

Went to PartsSelect. Put in Dishwasher model number. Chose the screws for that model number. Ordered the screws. Can't get any easier than that!

Very simple repair when you're supplied with the proper parts. Their delivery time is exceptional !