KCMS1555SSS0 KitchenAid Microwave - Instructions

Take off the cover top and both sides then i saw door latch bracket was broken one side after that I was used screw drivers take off old one out then replace new door latch bracket it very easy

Purchaced special security type srewdriver to gain access to interior of microwwave. Latch is press fitted in roller type receiver. No tool required to remove and replce new latch. Reassembled cover and job completed.

Removed the microwave unit from the kitchen built in space. 4 screws hold the perimeter cover on the four corners. Unit comes out easily after unpluging from wall.
Laid the unit on the counter and removed torx and phillips screws to remove the cover that wraps around the top and sides.
Latch bracket behind the door button had one pivot post broken. Removed the old bracket. Repositioned the new bracket by pressing it in at the plastic 'ears' on the microwave. The plastic 'ears' on the microwave unit give just slightly as the new bracket pivot posts wedge into place. Replaced the cover and put the microwave unit in the built in space.

I pulled out the unit. Opened the back by using the special torx driver (bought at Lowe's). Found out that Door latch bracket is broke. Checked the computer and was prompted to the partselect.com. I compared the broken part to their diagram. Ordered the part on a Saturday, it came in on Tuesday. Stick the part to where it belong. Presto. Microwave is working like new again.

Remove Oven from cabinet.Remove rear outer shell, 8 screws. Loosen two screws holding receiver end of broken component which is also a gang bar for several switches. Install new door latch by inserting extended end into gang bar and one of the two rotating pins into obvious receptacle and popping the second pin into slot provided. Refastened screws holding gang bar. Cannot go wrong, holes are manufactured into receptacle which properly aligns the component. Reinstall rear outer shell, Remount into cabinet recepticle. Very simple !

After buying the (tamper proof star bit set) it only took about 15 min. You have to take the cover off to get at the latch. I found that removing the snap wire connectors made the installation easier. I made sure to mark each one, and not to force the new latch apart to much. It sure beat paying for a service call, saved about $100.

Opened Box and Replaced Part......No Problem!

I removed the cover using a philips screw driver and a set op tamper proof torx head allen wrench set. I inspected the latch assembly and found the door latch part broken. It was easy to remove and the new part snapped into place. Repair was finished and microwave back in service in less than five minutes. Most folks would throw their microwave away and purchase a new one, the door mechanisms are usually easy to repair and parts are available. Be careful in there because of the potential of electrocution, that is why they put the tamper proof screws in place. Next time, try to repair your appliance before you decide to throw it away, may save you some hard earned money.

The push button door latch had broken on my microwave. After digging into the unit-which was the hardest part, getting the shell off and getting at the control panel, I was able to see an interior latch part that had one side of plastic broken off. 40. repair piece later and I was able to plug that in, put it all back together and it works, although it does not feel that solid or that it will last a lifetime. Glad I was able to fix instead of calling a repair guy.

ordered a new tray

Unplug microwave. Remove the cover(mine had six screws- including 4 special screws I was able to remove the special screws with pliers. Remove the broken latch. Then you must take out the two screws which hold plastic plate that has a bunch of wires connected to it. Otherwise you can’t install the new latch without breaking the side “axle” of the latch. Once you remove the plastic plate the new latch will snap right into place. Reinstall the plastic plate w the screws and you are good to go. Note of caution. The micro cover edges are as sharp as a knife. Use gloves!

removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).

I took the microwave out of the cabinet compartment and placed it on the counter. I removed the torx screws from the back and the two phillips head screws from each side. I then pulled the cover back and off. I removed the broken latch piece by pushing it away from me until the outside nipple was free and then pulled the piece out. I opened the door by pushing up on the latch with a flat head screwdriver. I put the end of the new part into the area behind the latch and on top of the microswitch and pushed until the outside nipple would slide into the slot. I then replaced the cover and secured with the screws taken out initially. Done.

The power on the microwave went completely out when I went to use it, but there was no power failure for the house or neighborhood. We removed the microwave from above the oven. Took out the screws on the sides and back of the microwave and slid the top back. The line fuse was located on top unobstructed, NOT behind the button panel like some microwave models. As the appliance is over 20 years old the line fuse was quite old. It was really hard to pry it out of its holder and actually broke. I used a vacuum to suck up the dust and glass and it was easier to get out the ends once the middle broke. Popped the new line fuse in, slid the top back on, put in the screws and put the microwave back in its compartment above the stove. Good as new!! We were about to spend money on a new microwave, but thankfully I came across this site. So happy I did!!

This repair was really easy. The part that took the most time was taking it down from it's compartment above the oven and putting it back up there once repaired.

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).