JW3000A Jenn-Air Washer - Instructions

I changed the piece easily

raised the top of the washer to get at the front panel screws. Removed the front panel. Removed the cracked hose and installed the new one. Reinstalled the front and top panels.

I moved the washer out from the wall. unplugged washer, turned off water. Took off rear plate exposing pump. Disconnected hoses, using dry/wet vac to catch water. Took out three screws holding pump to base of washer and removed pump, belt slipped right off. Set new pump in place and put in screws. Connected hoses, put rear plate back on. Tilted washer back and installed belt on pulleys and motor. Turned on water, plugged in washer, started to wash clothes. Washer works fine and QUIET. I have yet to find the model number on my Maytag washer. I ordered the pump by sight (good pics).

It took long because I did not know where the noise is coming from and I took the sides off. I went to the store and bought a new washing machine. Delivery was scheduled in 3 days. I decided to lay the machine on its side and look underneath. I pulled the belt off the 3 pulleys and turned each pulley by hand. The one runing the pump was stiff and noisey. I ordered the part, arrived in 2 days, installed it in 15 minutes and closed the machine in 30 minutes, then cancelled the order of the new machine and saved $500.00

First , I unlocked top cover and propped; removed front cover. tilted machine back propping front. pump is at lower right corner, removed both hoses, removed belt and three screws. reversed order completing job. You will have some water leakage removing hoses.

Hardest part was figuring out how to get to the water valve. Turned out that the way in was from the top. All I had to do is remove two screws at the back of the top panel, and then unclip the front edge of the top panel (use a thin screwdriver to press in on the clips from the front of the machine). From there, it was easy to reach down inside and remove/replace the valve.

Disconnect Power. Disconnect supply hoses. Open top by releasing top retainer clips with a thin blade or putty knife. Remove 2 sheet metal screws retaining front cover. Remove front cover. Lay a blanket on the floor and lay the machine over on its side leaving access to the front where the panel was just removed. Take belt off. Remove pump hose at bottom of drum. Prop up drum so it is centered in its normal position and not laying to one side. Do this near the lid end. Remove all centering springs - carefully. Drum and transmission assy will now come out through the front opening. Flip drum assy upside down with transmission up. Loosen the screws (do not remove completely - WARNING OF 200 LBS SPRING LOAD!) that clamp the snubber ring to the transmission. Remove the old snubber ring and replace with new. Be sure it is completely under the flange all the way around. Tighten the retaining ring screws. Reassemble all parts in reverse order. Done. Be sure to level the machine per owners manual instructions.

Removed front panel by releasing spring clips with putty knife and removed two screws with a ratchet and 5/16” socket. Removed rear access cover with a ratchet and 5/16” socket. Removed and replaced tub to pump hose. Loosened clamps on each end of hose with channel locks.
Re installed rear access cover and front panel.

Followed the great instructions on your video

Disconnect all water supply and unplug washer. Remove 3 screws on back panel of the washer. This will expose the pump unit. Detach belt on the bottom of the washer. Then detach two hoses that connects to the pump unit. Use pliers if necessary to disconnect hoses. Use 5/16 socket with extension to take out three bolts the connect pump to the washer. That's it, now replace old pump unit and with new. Place bolts back in the 3 holes, reattached hoses, cover the back with 3 scres. Connect the belt to the pulley system on the bottom. Connect water supply and plug it in.

Pulled that sucker out from the wall and leaned him back just enough to prop a case a beer under it. Slid up under there with the biggest dust bunny I ever seen. Yanked that old belt off and threw it away. Tried to uncoil the new one and it slapped me in the nose! Got it uncoiled and around the two smaller pulleys pulling the adjustable one in to it's limit and walked the belt around the big drum pulley. By the time my wife put down her coffee and came to see if she can lend me a hand I was done!.

Rolled the old one off and rolled the new one on.

tipped the washer back, laid on the floor, and wrapped new belt around 3 pulleys. everything works as before.

Tilted machine back, put a paint can under it and did R & R with belts.

Replacing a belt on a washing machine is a pretty easy process, depending slightly on how easy it is to access the belt. On our Maytag, the belt can be accessed directly underneith the washing machine. So, I lifted the front of the machine and put a few blocks of scrap wood under the legs to hold up the front of the machine. Once that was done, there was nothing else that needed to be removed to access the pullies that the belt had to go around. The motor itself is generally adjustable to allow the belt to be changed. So, I first wrapped the belt around the largest one that spins the washin machine tub, and then wrapped it around the one that spins the water pump. Finally, I loosened the bolt on the motor to allow it to move, wrapped the belt around the motor, pulled the motor back to tighten up the belt, and tightened the bolt that holds the motor in place. It's a pretty straight forward repair that narly anyone could do thmselves.