JVM6175BL2TS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

1. turned off electricity -- unplugged the unit 2. removed 3 screws on top of top vent, removed vent screen then I located the little white cylindrical fuse and popped it out with a table knife. Then I popped in the new fuse. Replaced the vent screen and screws -- plugged in the appliance and it is working again.

This is the second time that this lamp hase gone out. It is located in a small space in the top of the microwave and you need to remove the top front pannel, then take a screw or two out of a metal shield and bend the shield up to get your hand into the compartment where, if you know how, you can reach in and lift out the reflector shield that the lighbulb is plugged into and remove the old one and plug in the new one. The first time was hard to figure out how to do it but the second time wasn't bad because I knew how to do it.

*Remove Two Phillips head screws from the top of vent slide the vent left to remove it. Take the charcoal filter out then the metal cover underneath the filter. It also has a phillips head screw. bulb socket is on right facing down. Squeeze the metal clips and remove socket from bracket. Installation is the reverse of removal.

I've been fixing and taking things apart since I was a kid. I hoped that it was a bad switch in the door. Got out my test meter and check the 3 different switches. All 3 tested good, but one was a bit hit and miss. It would work if the microwave was on its side and wouldn't when it was set flat. I found the switch online and installed it. Took care of the problem.It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new microwave. Thanks! Bill Brown, Fridley, MN

I ended up breaking one bulb trying to remove a burnt bulb for replacement. We then tried removing the other bulb and it wouldn't come out either. I googled the problem and found PartSelect and an explaination of the problem. Heat from either the stove or the bulbs had fused the bulbs into the sockets. Comments on the problem explained that you just remove the bottome pannel (we had seven screws), unplug the old sockets, insert the new and new bulbs and reattach the panel. It was quick and no problems to correct. We did discover the microwave was on its own breaker, make sure to disconnect or cutoff power to the microwave before you start.

After removing the screws holding the 2 cover plates in position, I removed the halogen light bulbs with my fingers. Then I placed a paper towel around the first replacement bulb and lined up the two wire connectors with the two holes in the receptacle. I pushed in, but the bulb's probes did not slide into the receptacle. I spent five minutes aligning and pushing but to no avail. Then I removed the filter screen on the side of the receptacle, shined a flashlight beam on the receptacle, and with an improved view of the two holes in the receptacle, slid the bulb in. The second bulb was inserted in a few minutes, and the job was done. Whoever designed the halogen bulb was not as bright as Thomas Edison.

This was a super easy repair job. I couldn't figure out how the lens that covered the light bulb would have cracked and realized it must have been from my contractor when he replaced my stove. I can't prove it, of course, so I am left doing the repairs. The website was very easy to order from and confirm that I had the correct parts as the model numbers tend to change over time.

Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.

This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.

took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.

I unscrewed the entire undersurface of the microwave (I didn't do this before!) and replaced the light socket. Easy job and I'm glad the part was still available.

Rather than open access door took off bottom (5 screws) This gave more room as the microwave is mounted under the wall cabinets over the stove.