JVM2070BH02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Open the box that the part came in and place it in the microwave. The best is how fast it came to my home. Thanks

The new turntable shipment was super fast!!! I received it only a few days after ordering it. Installation was nothing more than placing it in the microwave oven.

GREAT Transaction!!! Thanjs!!!

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

I took the cover off, and replaced the glass-- the difficult part, was ordering the glass..on the list of parts to order-- the description of the glass was mis-leading

I contacted ge , with absolutely no help, thanks to part select I was able to order the part and received it within 4 days it was very easy to take apart, first unscrew the small phillips screw on the top right side , then slide the vent grill to the left and gently pull away from the microwave, that's about it and install in the same manner.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

I found the replacement parts by the drawings on the website. The drawings are excellent and very easy to follow. Ordered what I needed and read the previous comments to see how to dismantle the vent and replaced the part. It was slot simpler than expected. Thanks to part select for a great experience.

Odered replacement

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

Found your site online, ordered parts needed. When parts arrived I just put them into the holes in the microwave and popped on the self. Worked like a charm! Thanks very much!

used the Dremel Osciilating tool with small blade to quickly cut/remove the old rack holder and then inserted new hold. Took less then 5 minutes total.

The halogen light bulb took a little skill. The prongs were a little difficult to maneuver into place.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.