JVM1542BF03 - Instructions

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

A 2 yr old could do this snap out. Snap in less then. 30 seconds . What a shame and rip off on appliance repair shops - I called to do this rediculsley 40 second job and the wantvv$125.00!9t more. Omg. I’m a senior/ no wonder God punished the world wit Covid 19! Too many nasty infair. Buii I needed and rip offs.

removed cover over motor blew it out of leaves and dust. Removes 4 screws and removed piece ordered. The coil was rusted and not connecting. Changed oiece its working again

I used a screw driver to take out 4 screws on top of the micro, took out the old filter and put the new filter in. It couldn't have been any easier.

Originally called it "grease filter" until I found very small print "air filter" on damaged original. Part #PS3527528

Slipped into place with ease -- right bottom of microwave

Change gasket

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

the repair kit was useless the toggles were to big to go through the top the threads on the bolts interrupted the toggle i had to drill the holes thole to except the toggles I got bolts at the hardware store what a mess
Bob

You Tube

Took off cover and checked all of circuits (& fuse). Had continuity until I got to turntable motor. Little motor on bottom of micro.It did not have continuity. I thought - looking at circuits - it had to be motor. When I got new motor - I was surprised there was no continuity through it but I was confident it was what I needed . But motor in & tested & worked fine. GE was no help at all! No useful info at all online! No schematics! The motor Had been discontinued ( thankks to info from Partselect.com). Partselect.com found a replacement part (& #).

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.

I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.

i unplugged the unit,unscrewed the outer shell so that all the wiring and internal components were visible.starting at the first of three micro switches i removed the slip on terminals installed the alligator clips too the wires so the switch would now be bypassed.i made sure the wires and clips were not touching anything plugged unit in and it worked.i then installed the new switch and closed up the outer shell