JVM1330BW04 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I removed one phillips screw on the inside of door. Took a butter knief and popped the strip on the inside of door to expose the 2nd screw. Attached the new handle using the two original screws. Less than 5 min. Piece of cake.

UNPLUG MIRCOWAVE.REMOVE THE HARDWARE, COVERS, AND DECONNECT THE CONTROL PANEL. REMOVE AND REPLACE VENT THERMOSTAT. REINSTALL EVERTHING IN REVERS ORDER. WORK FINE NOW. ADVISE IF YOUR FIRST TIME GET INSTRUCTIONS ON INTERNET SEARCH OR YOU TUBE

I purchased the fuse and 3 door switches from PartSelect. Replaced the fuse first but that did not solve the problem. Then I replaced the 3 door switches and problem solved!! So fuse only cost $5.00 so glad I have a new fuse in there as well. To see how to replace door switches see videos on utube!!

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

Handed the part to my son. He unscrewed 5 screws in the base of the microwave, it dropped down. The light mechanism was clearly in view. With the exception of some corrosion on the old piece, it was simple to remove and replace, put back together, screw back up and all worked fine.

I used the internet and your directions to complete the repair. It was easy!

removed electrical wires, unscrewed holder, inserted holder, attached wires, added bulb, and put cover back on.

The repair was relatively ease. I have to tell you that what helped me the most was reading the experiences others had had. The repair took me qabout 7 minutes. Simply take a puddy knife and carefully take out the ring around the glass on the indide of the door. Once removed you will see the botoom screw. The upper screw is very visible. Remove the two screws and replace....its that ease.

There was one screw on top that was easily accessable, but the lower one is hidden. I first removed the door seal that goes around the outside of the door but, that didn't expose the screw. On the inside of the door there is a seal just for the glass window. I used a butter knife to open just a section of it and it immediately exposed the screw that I needed to remove.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

GE slate microwave approximately 2 years old. Completely dead. Power to outlet was good, no gfci was tripped. Started checking fuses, 250v ceramic fuse good, two fuses at the bottom behind the control panel. One on the left labeled 12 on the diagram tested no continuity. One on the right labeled 13 tested good with continuity. So i figured number 12 was bad. Got the part and turns out to be the wrong fuse. Part number was the same but the terminals were the wrong size. Im pretty sure GE has the diagram labeled wrong because i ordered number 13 and it was the right size. Just an FYI if you are ordering those fuses for your microwave that 12 and 13 on the diagram may be reversed. Anyway received the right fuse and tested the new fuse and it tests open continuity and did not fix my issue. Microwave is still dead. There are two other fuses in the back that i need to check so hopefully i find the issue. Hope this helps someone, remember one fuse behind the control panel tests open and the other tests closed and thats how it is suppose to function.

Remove top air grate via 2-screws. Remove metal top panel behind grate that's above bulb via 1-screw. Bulb is exposed and can be un-screwed. DONE

Phillips screws on bottom panel allowed me to install new socket and put electric connection back. Secured bottom panel and that was it.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

Placed the screws in the proper areas, used the screw driver to tighten down and I was in business with light to spare. I am happy to have found the proper screws.
Thank you.