JVM1190BYC01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were gu ... Read more ide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again

I removed the unit from the wall removed the top two screws holding the panel above the door I the two screws holding the control panel removed the three switchs I found the top one to be blown and replaced it

Primary door switch was shorted and blew the fuse when the oven was plugged in. Replaced primary door interlock switch.

Removed control panel first then removed bracket holding door switches 8 screws total very easy fix ????

After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to ins ... Read more tall correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.

Repair, not the problem. It was getting the correct filter. Under filter is "grease" not "air" filter. So first time an air filter came. Returned to GE. Found out GE doesn't make the size needed for 2001 model any longer --just bigger. Then connected to PartsSelect, they had right filter for the right model. Came and didn't fit. Returned ... Read more . While getting return OK, very helpful individual kept checking and realized larger size was sent and did find the correct size. It was sent and fit. Your customer service was extremely helpful.

Removed the broken pieces of the microwave floor and placed the new one in, careful that the gasket didn't slip off.

Looked at schematic to see which parts became active when the power button was pushed. From there used meter to determine diode was open and capacitor was shorted. Biggest trouble was dis-assembly/assembly required to get to electrical parts.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove t ... Read more wo femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

The replacement of the light no problem, the reason the light broke; problem. The original was glued in (for transport i think) and simply trying to unscrew it out (in a very tight slot) it broke; be careful or you’ll be buying a new $20 bulb (with shipping and handling).

Un screwed the cover but when i tried to remove the bulb it was broken at the base. I disconnected the power and used neddle nosed pliers to remove the base

I replaced the switch at the bottom per instruction. I had both switches. I think it was the monitor door switch.It works fine now. Thank you Part Select .

Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and veri ... Read more fy the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...

Took the front panel off, played with the switch while it was plugged in to verify the switch was bad. I actually was able to tweak the switch just right to keep the microwave working while the part was being delivered. When it came it was just removing two small screws and replacing. Very easy.

Remove top air grate via 2-screws. Remove metal top panel behind grate that's above bulb via 1-screw. Bulb is exposed and can be un-screwed. DONE