JGS9900BDS16 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

The igniiter is made of ceramic and had cracked.
I remove the burner assembly, but couldn't remove the screw holding the igniter. After trying liquid wrench and every available screw driver. I opted to order the complete burner assembly. I installed the new assembly in 5 minutes and it worked great. This is the second ceramic igniter that has cracked on this stove top and both times I've had to replace the whole assembly. For a $1000 stovetop, I expected better quality. I'm just wondering how many times I'm going to have to replace burner assemblies. Each time it's been a different assembly.

Clearly, the oven gasket was not the cause of the problem.
The hinge replacements did not fix the problem. I think the problem was that the hinge's mating part inside the door had been deformed, perhaps by leaning on the door when fully opened. I compensated for that by placing two stacked magnets near the upper hinge mounting screw hole on the inside of the oven body. (0.75" screws , 8-24 or metric equiv., needed for the upper screw location.) This gave the hinge about 15 degrees of additional door tilting force. In addition, I added 6 ceramic magnets across the top of the door mating surface, kudos to that website. Now it pulls fully flush with the magnets.
Ceramic magnets are good to 400+ degrees and they come in boxes of 120 for $12.00.
I only had one oven as a sample, but I could see what I thought was deformation on the inside of the oven door where the hinges are inserted. In this case, I think that makes (only) hinge replacement futile.
Sorry if this solution does not fit your marketing desire, but I did leave the new hinges installed.

I've done this once before on this same gas stovetop as the electrode can degrade if it suffers from too many "boil-overs". The most important thing to do if the 2 screws holding the burner head on the cooktop are "tight" and don't unscrew easily is to soak them with WD-40 to loosen them up. Don't be in a hurry. They may need a couple of soak and waits. Once the screws are out, it's just a matter of connecting the wire on the electrode and replacing the burner. Also a Star screwdriver that fits properly is essential.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.

After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.

Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...

Removed old ingniter with screwdriver. Installed new igniter, but had to remove connector in order to electrically connect using twist on connectors.

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches to disconnect the electric wire - it had a small bayonet connection. I turned the element over and unscrewed the small screw holding the ignitor to the element freeing the ignitor from the element. After receiving the part from Part Select, I reversed the process...

1. attaching the ignitor to the underside of the element using the small screw.
2. reattaching the electric wire to the ignitor.
3. positioning the element on the stove top.
4. reattaching the eelement using the 2 screws.
5. testing and finding it worked fine.

A couple of observations:

1. The screws holding the element to the stove are star screws while the screw attaching the ignitor to the element is Phillips - necessitating 2 different screwdrives for an easy repair.

2. I had problems with the initial part delivery - it went to a wrong address. PartSelect Customer Service was great. I had a less than 5min wait for getting a rep on the line with the 1 call I had to make to get this corrected. And when I did get a rep she was both helpful, friendly and knowledgeable in correcting the situation.

After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.

Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.