JGP328SEK1SS General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

Used scribe to remove grate foot plug still in grate inserted new foot.

First remove the screws around the inside perimeter of the door. These require a special hex driver. Take off the inside plastic liner of door.
Peal off the old Insulation Foam Strip and replace it with the new strip in the same location. Make sure the wires are off to the right side. Replace the door plastic liner. Done. The Insulation Foam Strip really acts more like a loose gasket to keep spashing from creeping under the door and drippin out on the floor.

I ordered the spark module and replaced it which was veru simple, plugged it in and it sparked only now and again. I finally said forget it and it has now stopped sparking but for how long I do not know.

Could not get the model number of the cooktop stove. GE hides it very well. But, I found a replacement knob on your web that looked similar to my original. The photo of the replacement was very accurate in terms of showing its true size and configuration of the stem. This photo showed that the prospective replacement would match the original´s configuration and it did. Plus, it was the most inexpensive knob among the ones available in this or other sites. Great site.

Ordered by phone parts & very pleased with all of transaction.

Simply removed the 9 T9 screws from the top of the cooktop, removed the igniter spark modules, lifted the top of the cooktop up and removed harness assembly. Unplug harness from spark module and replaced in same fashion. SUPER EASY done in less than 15 minutes

The burner cap was a no brainer. The grate feet should have been also, but many of them were undersized so we had to maneuver them in such a way that they didn't fall out of the grates.

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

put it in but it keeps falling out. they're made narrower than my oven grate.

Very easy to remove grates, burner cover and remove old burner head. Very simple process, but surprised that there was no efficient way to clean carbon deposits from my old burner. Burner video instructions on line insured I installed the new burner head correctly (actually, pretty hard to get wrong), and burner worked correctly immediately. Will likely replace other burners in time as the new one is so "silvery" colored compared to my other burners.

Could not have been simpler. Burner head dropped into place and was held in place by gravity. Not possible for part to go in incorrectly.

Easy to replace - caution to make sure spark igniter switch is aligned and secured in correct position on the gas valve. The switch should cover both mounting screws on the gas valve when properly installed/aligned

This was and always will be an easy fix, all I have to do is get my ice pick and pick the broken rubber part stuck in the hole if it does not break clean and fall out. Not much more I can say about this simple problem.

Good way to tell/verify what your problem is. On my GE Cooktop, moving any of the knobs to light cause a spark for all igniters. One of our knobs would not cause a spark. - Remove gas grills and covers. - Remove screws - Pull igniters up (be gentle to not crack them - Pull wire out from igniter - lift cover of cooktop - pull harness off each know and disconnect two wires - put new harness on and connect and backfill. Pretty easy overall.