JES1450ML1 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Looked up the part in the online manual, watched a YouTube video, removed upper back of range, swapped out part. Saved $200!!

Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light

Unplugged stove-Removed oven door two screws held the oven bottom pan removed same to observe the element removed thre fasteners removed inspection cover on back of the oven pulled off two electric wires replaced element reassembled easy job

Turned off power
Removed door
Removed a few screws
Take out elements and replace with new ones
Very easy process

I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal ... Read more fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.

It was easy to remove the old oven door gasket. Just a little tug was all that was needed. Installing new gasket was just as simple as tucking in the gasket end into the hole at the bottom and pushing the clip in the corresponding hole.
TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or t ... Read more he point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.

I've replaced oven heating elements before, but never in a 3 year old electric range oven. I watched the video again after the element arrived, and installation was easy with only 2 screw drivers. I was concerned about the repair when I saw the severity of damage to the old heating element and the underside of the bottom oven metal/cerami ... Read more c plate, which was almost burned (a hole) through. After finishing the installation the oven showed it was preheating but no heat was being generated. A couple of phone calls later, a Whirlpool repair technician told me the main control panel needed replaced- $385 much higher cost due to chip shortage, inflation, and would take 2 months to arrive due to supply chain issues. So I don't know yet if the element is good or not. I am disappointed that the element blew in a relatively new appliance, but a total cost of $600 in a 3 year old oven is still probably better than $1200 for a new oven which is double the price I paid in 2018. Part failures never come at a good time but 2 months without an oven at Christmas & New Years is added frustration. When the heating element burned out there was a loud buzzing sound associated with the failure, which I've never experienced before and there were flames coming from underneath the bottom plate in the oven for an extended period of time. The repair for the heating element itself went smooth, but be advised you may get into more than just the element.

Followed a video I found online showing how to replace the bottom bake element. It was very easy to do. I simply unplugged the over, removed the back wire cover and detached the damaged element connectors.

I then removed the bottom oven cover which conceals the element. Unscrewed and removed the damaged element and replaced it ... Read more with the new one. Connected the wires to the new element and then Installed the bottom cover along with the back wire cover and plugged the oven back in. It was really this easy.

After part arrived I removed fan casing from the inside, then slid the range out and unplugged it. I unscrewed part from the back and put in the new part. Plugged range, turned on convection to test and it works properly now! Fan spins smoothly!

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical ... Read more connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

First, I shut off power to cooktop at breaker and double checked to make sure. Then I disconnected wiring and exhaust duct since the cooktop is a downdraft. After that was completed, I had to remove control knobs simply by pulling straight up. A neighbor helped me to lift the cooktop from the cabinet. After stabilizing the cooktop, I remo ... Read more ved the hex nuts holding the glass in place. Then the glass lifted off easily and I could access the bad element. I took pictures of the wiring before disconnecting the wires and installed the new element. Then I reversed the procedure to put the cooktop back in the cabinet, reconnecting the electric and exhaust. I flipped the breaker back on and the element was just like new...because it was!

I first shut off the breaker, then, after pulling the stove away from the wall, I unplugged it. I removed the two screws in the back of the stove which came off easily. I removed the two screws inside the oven and removed the bottom plate. I noticed the heating element I was changing had braces along the bottom. I had to remove the two s ... Read more crews and removed the burnt out element. The new element did not have the braces the original element had, but it fit in perfectly. Then I replaced all the screws, plugged it in and turned on the breaker and it worked. The only thing that we noticed is there’s a clicking sound every time the temperature increases. Not sure what that is.

Your technician suggested that the control knob unit was defective. I ordered the part and after watching your video, I was able to make the repair

Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair

I have tried to call, but NO-ONE answers the phone. I have sent emails, but all I get is an automated response telling me to go to the web site. Partselect is the worst company I have ever dealt with, I need to return about $100 in parts and I cannot get an automated return form or someone on the phone. I will NEVER do business with ... Read more them or recommend them to anyone. In a nutshell they SUCK as a company.