JES1289SK03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

After looking up on the computer a schematic of the unit, all that was needed was removing four screws to remove the top and side cover which was one piece.
Next was removal of electrical connection to burned out lamp, then removing burned out lamp and installing the new lamp and reconnecting electrical connection.
Job was complete after reinstalling the cover.

Microwave now working with new lamp lighting when in use.

Door microswith was stuck on. This is caused, I discovered, by frequently stopping the oven, while running, by opening the door rather than using the stop button. Causes the switch to arc and eventually fail. This causes the safety microswitch to trip the breaker when door is opened. There are little nubs sticking up on the spade connectors. You must squeeze them down before you can remove them from the switch. The main door switch is the upper one, mounted at an angle. You have to remove the latch assembly to remove the switch. The problem was obvious once I got the switch out. This problem could also blow the fuse, but in my case the breaker tripped first. Use an ohmmeter to check switch and fuse. The door switch is normally open. The safety switch is normally CLOSED. Instructions inside were helpful and described this problem. So, avoid this repair by always stopping oven with stop button!

I happen to have a set of "security" screw driver tips which are required for this appliance - available for about $10 at Home Depot or Harbor Freight. Remove three security screws from back of housing, lift up and aft to remove the cover. The light is on the left in a "snap in" mounting so use a flat blade screw driver to push back the retainer and lift out the old bulb then disconnect the two "push on" wires and install the new light. Total time about 10 minutes. The only issue is the requirement for a security driver set.

removed 3 screws to take off outer housing ( did not have proper screw driver but was able to remove with pliers). used flat head screw driver to pry light socket w/bulb off of snap-in mounting & unplugged socket wire attachments. plugged in & reattached new part.

Removed the three screws holding the cover on. then rmoved the two wires from the capacitor. Removed the screw holding the end of the zener diode to the chassis. Removed the diode from the capacitor. installed the new capacitor and replaced the blown fuse then reversed the removal process.

Went on line and saw the Video - very simple to follow - very easy to remove and install the new switch -- went like a breeze!

Fast & easy. I was able to determine that this foot would work from the descriptions on online!! Thanks

1. Remove trim kit - Philips head screw driver
2. Remove Microwave from the wall - Philips head screw driver
3. Remove outer microwave cover - required tamper proof torx bit drivers
4. Replace Magnetron thermostat. On this model there are 2. in this case it was on top of the unit tied into the wiring harness to the main panel.
5. Reinstall microwave and trim kit

they had everything I needed, friendly service, fast shipping, no problems

Remove the door and order the part. With in a day the part was at my front door. 30 minutes later was using applicance. Superb service from this company!!!!!!!!!

Light bulb repair was super easy once I got the out shell of the microwave off. The unanticipated problem was that I didn't realize the outer shell was secured with unusual "Security Torx" screws I have a couple star screw drivers but these were very unusual and could not find a proper screwdriver to remove them. I was able to force them lose with a small philips screwdriver and a pair of channel lock pliers. It took me quite a while to get the screws off this way but once I got them out and the outer shell off the microwave the light bulb replacement took less than 10 minutes. You should market the appropriate screwdriver to remove the outer microwave shell with any interior replacement parts.

Our microwave oven stopped working one day when the door was closed. The clock stopped showing, the light didn't come on when the door was opened, and the microwave couldn't be started. It acted as if it lost power. So, we did the usual things such as check the plug and the circuit; these were fine. I then removed the cover (need special bits called "Security Bits" which you can buy from Home Depot for $8.00). After removing the cover, be sure to discharge the capacitor (do a Google search to learn how to do this; fortunately, this microwave has a resistive circuit to ground to discharge the capacitor after about 30 minutes of being unplugged). After I discharged the capacitor, I checked the fuse and it was blown. So, I went to the store to buy a new fuse. When I replaced the fuse, and plugged the unit back into an outlet, the circuit blew as soon as I opened the door. This made me realize the faulty components were the "interlock" switches. These are relays (an electric switch) that cause the microwave to shut off when the door is opened and the inside lamp to illuminate when the door is opened. There are two "primary" switches and a "monitor" switch. I checked both primary switches for continuity (do a google switch for "checking interlock switch"). The one interlock switch was bad, meaning, it wasn't opening when it was suppose to. I ordered a replacement and also replaced the Monitor switch too (not sure why, I guess because it was only $6 to buy). After replacing the bad primary interlock switch, I put it all back together and we're working now!

I determined that one of the 4 micro switches that interface with the door was faulty. Ordered that part and replaced it. Had to remove the cover and front control panel (without removing any connections. Two philips screws hold the limit switch assembly to the bracket. After removing those screws, twist the whole switch assembly clockwise around the mounting frame and now you can remove the defective micro switch and replace it with a new one. This works for any of the 4 switches.

First remove tamper proof screws with vise - grips. Unplug capacitor ground out one side to discharge. Trouble shooting guide in a envelope in microwave, read it and did what it said. If 20 amp fuse is blown ( which it was ) replace primary and secondary switch and monitor switch. Switch assemble removes as a unit. Wires where hard to remove, you have to push on a release located on one side and pull to remove. Works great , only one switch was bad, but I did what the guide said. Draw a picture of wiring with color code so you do not mix up.

Understand the type of fasteners GE used in the appliance require a BRISTOL type screwdrive.....unfortunatley this tool is not a part of my tool chest.....after running my four letter vocabulary and the use of thin blade screwdrive a a small vise grip plier was able to get the little bugers out.....thank goodness there was only four.