JED8130ADW Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Turn off power, removed wires from switch, unscrewd lock nuts. Did the reverse to put the new switch with the exception of the the power which should always be turned off first. Took less than 5 min. to install. Wife happy!! which makes me happy.

:-) - Just removed the old one and replace with the new one. Nothing to it. Takes 30 seconds.

This was so easy. I've looked for years in stores for these pans. I finally tried the Internet, found PartSelects and, holding my breath at what i'd find, voila'...perfect fit, perfect replacements. And it took just a couple days to arrive. I'll definately be back!
/John

Extremely easy.
First, I turned powr off to appliance at electric panel (don't trust switches).
Next, I removed the 2 screws that held the panel cover, removed the dials, and removed 2 screws at each one (total eight) - this requrid a hex screw driver bit, which I had in my handy set.
I proceeded to loosen the panel, and disconnect the wires attached to the old switch (this may be tricky - mine came off easy, but did require care as to not to strip the wire from the clamp).
Once the old switch was removed and the plastic housing unscrewed, I attached the new fan assembly, and connected the wires, and reinstalled everything back in the same order.
(This is a good time to clean all the grease and dirt that has collected thru the years-before you put everything back).
Turned the power back on, and everything worked like before.
I figured I saved about 4 hours worth of labor (4x$50=$200 / minimum) plus any inflated part price I would have paid for a $20 part from PartSelect! It felt good!

It took longer to unpack the box. That was all there was to it. Unpack and drop in new grates.

Did not need tools for this job. Simply lift burner element and remove old drip pan and put new one in its place. However - the drip pans that were shipped only fit on the left side of the range. The right side, where the grill attachment goes, is so shallow that the drip pans on that side hit the bottom plate beneath the burner element and would not let the element go down far enough to seat properly. I kept the two pans that don't fit for extras, but I still need shallower pans to fit on the right side.

After examining the burner unit I noticed that one of the male contact spades was burned and look deformed. After removing the spade I discovered that it had been originally manufactured incorrectly. I went on line to try and find the part. I found it at this site . I ordered 2 of the spades and replaced the deformed spade and another one that looked like it had gotten a little hot. She tried the unit and it worked perfectly. She had not used that burner unit for a very lengthy time. The investigation of the problem took a little time, but the repair went very fast. Moral is :" If a spade doesn't look right, it probably isn't", but either the individual spade or plug can be replaced. This site is now my "GO TO" place for parts.

Note that this model# is not my exact model#, I couldn't find it - but its almost identical to this newer version of my Maytag glasstop drop-in stovetop.

Also note that these instructions are VERY generic and not detailed, as most all stoves will be different in assembly.

Be advised that you are NOT getting the part you see in the picture. It is going to be a newer part that does the same thing. It's a lot smaller and has an offwhite top. It will STILL work, don't return it! The only difference is that the labels on the connections will be a little different - see the other post here on this page that shows how they differ and what to connect to what. Thanks to them I was able to complete this fix easily!

Close the breaker to the stove to ensure no electricity is running to the stove! Use a voltage tester to make extra sure no electricity is running through the cables, they are cheap at home depot!

Just disassemble your stovetop to get to the area that houses the switches. You will see the switch boxes underneath where your knobs go. Take a picture of all connections if you can so you remember where everything plugs in. You'll have about 3-6 cables connected to the switch depending on your stovetop. There are labels on the old switch (L1, L2, etc) at each electrical connector the cables attach to - probably on the top or bottom of the switch. Write down the connector label and what color wire its connected to. Do this for each connection.

If the old labels dont match your new labels, you have an older switch and need to check the other post on this page that someone posted showing how the old labels translate to the new labels.

Now reconnect everything back the same way you took them off and you are good to go!

Such a simple fix and you'll save hundreds.

Removed heating elements and dropped new drip bowls in and replaced new elements

Two screws inside the exhaust box to take out the switch assembly and 2 nuts on the switch. Nothing to it

Remove switch cover with two screws ,remove two nuts holding switch in place ,remove switch,then reverse procedure with new switch.

Flip the breaker. Lift off the fan center grate. Remove two screws located on back of the burner dials housing. Lift the back of the housing, then pull this gently away from the front to unhook the front. Turn this over, locate the switch. Pull the three electrical plug connections from the switch plastic housing, remembering their locations. Back off the two nuts holding the switch to the underneath side of the dials housing. Place the new one in place, put it all back together.

Pulled out the old, plugged in the new

Simply unplugged the old elements and inserted the new ones.

remove two nuts and install new switch, then change wire connections from the old switch to the new one.
Then place it back together.