JED8130ADB Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Extremely easy.
First, I turned powr off to appliance at electric panel (don't trust switches).
Next, I removed the 2 screws that held the panel cover, removed the dials, and removed 2 screws at each one (total eight) - this requrid a hex screw driver bit, which I had in my handy set.
I proceeded to loosen the panel, and disconnect the wires attached to the old switch (this may be tricky - mine came off easy, but did require care as to not to strip the wire from the clamp).
Once the old switch was removed and the plastic housing unscrewed, I attached the new fan assembly, and connected the wires, and reinstalled everything back in the same order.
(This is a good time to clean all the grease and dirt that has collected thru the years-before you put everything back).
Turned the power back on, and everything worked like before.
I figured I saved about 4 hours worth of labor (4x$50=$200 / minimum) plus any inflated part price I would have paid for a $20 part from PartSelect! It felt good!

It took longer to unpack the box. That was all there was to it. Unpack and drop in new grates.

Did not need tools for this job. Simply lift burner element and remove old drip pan and put new one in its place. However - the drip pans that were shipped only fit on the left side of the range. The right side, where the grill attachment goes, is so shallow that the drip pans on that side hit the bottom plate beneath the burner element and would not let the element go down far enough to seat properly. I kept the two pans that don't fit for extras, but I still need shallower pans to fit on the right side.

Note that this model# is not my exact model#, I couldn't find it - but its almost identical to this newer version of my Maytag glasstop drop-in stovetop.

Also note that these instructions are VERY generic and not detailed, as most all stoves will be different in assembly.

Be advised that you are NOT getting the part you see in the picture. It is going to be a newer part that does the same thing. It's a lot smaller and has an offwhite top. It will STILL work, don't return it! The only difference is that the labels on the connections will be a little different - see the other post here on this page that shows how they differ and what to connect to what. Thanks to them I was able to complete this fix easily!

Close the breaker to the stove to ensure no electricity is running to the stove! Use a voltage tester to make extra sure no electricity is running through the cables, they are cheap at home depot!

Just disassemble your stovetop to get to the area that houses the switches. You will see the switch boxes underneath where your knobs go. Take a picture of all connections if you can so you remember where everything plugs in. You'll have about 3-6 cables connected to the switch depending on your stovetop. There are labels on the old switch (L1, L2, etc) at each electrical connector the cables attach to - probably on the top or bottom of the switch. Write down the connector label and what color wire its connected to. Do this for each connection.

If the old labels dont match your new labels, you have an older switch and need to check the other post on this page that someone posted showing how the old labels translate to the new labels.

Now reconnect everything back the same way you took them off and you are good to go!

Such a simple fix and you'll save hundreds.

Removed heating elements and dropped new drip bowls in and replaced new elements

Two screws inside the exhaust box to take out the switch assembly and 2 nuts on the switch. Nothing to it

Remove switch cover with two screws ,remove two nuts holding switch in place ,remove switch,then reverse procedure with new switch.

Flip the breaker. Lift off the fan center grate. Remove two screws located on back of the burner dials housing. Lift the back of the housing, then pull this gently away from the front to unhook the front. Turn this over, locate the switch. Pull the three electrical plug connections from the switch plastic housing, remembering their locations. Back off the two nuts holding the switch to the underneath side of the dials housing. Place the new one in place, put it all back together.

Pulled out the old, plugged in the new

Simply unplugged the old elements and inserted the new ones.

remove two nuts and install new switch, then change wire connections from the old switch to the new one.
Then place it back together.

I disassembled the stove top and replaced the components.

I got the switch wired correctly, with much cussing. It worked - burner heated. But I couldn't get the new switch to fit back with the old ones neatly enough to close the box and secure it. Got help from someone with stronger hands but still couldn't get it to fit. On top of that I found that the new knobs didn't fit on the new switch - or even on the old switches. The old knob didn't fit on the new switch either. I gave up. Removed the new switch and took out the corresponding burner. Still have 3 burners that work.
Repair folks had warned me that I couldn't get parts. They didn't say that it would look like there was a replacement part but it wouldn't fit!

just replaced by hand .

Pulled out the old burners and put in the new ones.