JEC9536ADW Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

1st - UNPLUGGED appliance from electrical source!! then removed screws to open ceramic stove top, disconnected wires from dead element, plugged in wires to new element, closed stove top, turned on burner - it worked!!

only problem is that "hot burner indicator" does NOT stay lit after burner is turned off!

Simple repair to replace stripped out knob. More importantly we ordered the part over Christmas and it arrived within 2 or 3 days

I actually did it manually. It was fast and easy.

Only hitch I experienced was identifying the correct replacement. The original diagram presented the accurate shape of the element my range required. However a different shaped element was displayed when I noted my unit is a series 12 serial number. I ordered it (with reservations) and as it turned out the replacement was identical to mine. Next time I will have a lil more confidence in the instructions given.

Turned off circuit breaker.Removed cooktop from counter top. Used small knife to break silicon seal. Removed glass top from pan by removing retaining screws.The removal of the old part required removal of a nut on the switch shaft which was not obvious . This required the needle nose . Otherwise the replacement was simply exchangeing the wires.

Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact match. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!

The hardest part was finding the part number...and that wasn't all that bad. Perfect match; perfect fit.

Our cooktop is about 9 years old. Great appliance, but poor engineering/design choice to have aluminum knobs with plastic knob shafts, that almost every time the burner gets turned on, the plastic shaft gets stressed and they crack, rendering them useless over time. I replaced all five (5), for about $80 delivered, since I got tired of repairing them. I did see a very helpful post from a guy in Arizona (thanks if you're reading this) whose daughter glued the shafts inside and out, and then wrapped them in wire. I did the same thing with my spares (I have about 7 now, after replacing one or two over the years), as I took the metal sleeve out of the middle, glued them inside and out, and used small plastic wire ties to close them up tight, then putting the metal insert back inside. After the glue dried, I snipped off the end of the wire tie. It worked great! Thanks, Tom D., from outside Boston, MA.

To be honest, it was nothing much. Had to reach and remove metal collars that were left behind around the pins, with needle-nose pliers. Put in the new knobs, and we were done.

What really left me impressed was 1) that the rep sent me pictures of the suspected knobs over email so I could identify them easily, and 2) I was expecting to wait for a week but I had the parts the next afternoon!!

One important note is you can't buy the control for the right front burner (Custom Control) by itself. This kit included both the burner, control and wiring harnesses. This is a retrofit, I am assuming a known problem with the original design. This repair requires the cooktop to be removed from counter, turned upside down, and disassembled. It comes with a 45 step instruction sheet thats pretty good. Let me point out a few things that are helpful: 1) The screws to attach the control to the switch plate are too short. These are 8/32 screws 1/4 inch long. I had to go to the hardware store and buy two screws 3/8 long and cut them, since 3/8 is too long of course. Follow directions carefully, you need to remove the bottom cover and fan to disconnect it before taking the burner box completely off. The shaft of the new control is shorted than the other controls so you need to put a "filler" in the burner nob. THey suggest you use the rubber gasket from the old switch so make sure not to throw it away. One other note, since this is a retrofit, you need a drill. You need to drill out two slots in the switch plate to mount the new burner control. Good Luck.

This is a two module cook top That I have, 2 burners in each module. I took it apart take the damaged one out and replaced with the new one, put it back together and turn it on. Heeeyyyy it works. Thanks.(and I'm not an electrician)

parts came on time and the repair was just remove the old and replace with new.

remove old knob, plce new knob on.

put new knob on

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out