Models > JE1590CH > Instructions

JE1590CH - Instructions

All Instructions for the JE1590CH
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Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Parts Used:
FUSE
  • Ronald from PONCA CITY, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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the TCO is a temperature fuze on the side of the exhaust outlet. When the exhaust registers too high a heat temperature the fuze blows and stops the entire unit from working.
I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.
Parts Used:
Oven Cavity Temperature Cut-Out
  • James C from ARLINGTON, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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no light
remove the shroud. 2 types of screws. Philips and 2 specialty star screws. Then remove the light socket. 1 Philips screw. replace the socket and bulb. The bulb and socket are 1 piece. Replace the shroud.
Parts Used:
Lamp,Incandescent
  • William from MALONE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Broken Glass Cooking Tray
Placed the new tray into the oven.
Parts Used:
Glass Cooking Tray
  • Gloria from ROSSFORD, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Glass tray somehow got a nick in the edge, a few days later it split while in use.
Another company said the new plate would arrive in mid-March, this company seemed to be faster so ordered the tray here, and it came in less than a week. I put the turn button back in the center hole, set the wheeled ring on the bottom of the oven, fitted the new glass tray onto the turn button.
Parts Used:
Glass Cooking Tray
  • Delores from Portland, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Microwave would not heat up
Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.
Parts Used:
Primary Door Interlock Switch
  • Suzanne from POWELL, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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Microwave/Convection over lamp burnt.
Phillips screws out of the side; torx screws out of the bottom/back and slide the cover off of the back. The light is not visible but not hard to find: on the top left side mounted on a black plastic base with 1 phillips screw & stud holds other side. You can tell what the base looks like from the new part. GE probably wants you to call them to make the $-ha. Stay clear of any capacitors (shock) or chips (short) & touch the chassis to ground or if a tech, wear a ground strap.
Parts Used:
Oven Lamp
  • gleason jay from ENCINITAS, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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one of the little wheels kept coming off the ring.
just lift the glass turntable off and take the ring out and put the new in and put the glass back.
Parts Used:
Turntable Assembly
  • Jerome from TECUMSEH, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Lawn mower would not start
removed cover over motor blew it out of leaves and dust. Removes 4 screws and removed piece ordered. The coil was rusted and not connecting. Changed oiece its working again
Parts Used:
Glass Cooking Tray
  • Lorraine from MIDDLETOWN, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Turntable Stopped Working/Display Timer Would Countdown But Not Heat
With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!
Parts Used:
Primary Door Interlock Switch
  • Steve from Wesley Chapel, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Burned out magnetron
Removed cover
Disconnected capacitor from old magnetron
Removed old magnetron
Installed new part
Connected capacitor
Reinstalled cover
Parts Used:
Microwave Magnetron
  • Dewey from MADISON, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Roller of old part would periodically come off and prevent plate from turning.
Took the plate out and replaced the old part with the new one. Worked immediately.
Parts Used:
Turntable Guide With Rollers
  • Georgia from DANVILLE, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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M/W would not start. control panel OK
unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced
Parts Used:
Primary Door Interlock Switch
  • Jeffrey from FULSHEAR, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Door switch malfunction
Take cover off microwave. Check door switches to determine which one was faulty.Remove and replace faulty switch.
Parts Used:
Micro Switch
  • Sherry from PINELAND, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Door Switch went bad, Internal Fan would run every time you open the door
Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.
Parts Used:
Primary Door Interlock Switch
  • gilbert from TOMS RIVER, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the JE1590CH
61 - 75 of 125