JDB3650AWF2 Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove the mounting screws that hold the dishwasher under the counter top. Remove dust cover plates at the bottom of the machine. The machine will have to be pulled out, so turn off the water to the machine. Usually under the kitchen sink. Disconnect water supply and push it out of the way so the dishwasher can be pulled out. Pull machine out enough so you have access to the door cables and springs. The door will have to be in the closed(up) position to do the repair. Usually only one side is broken. Start with the broken side and copy the working side when installing new parts. Then repair the working side. To get the working side apart just pull on the spring and disconnect it from the cable. Do the reverse to reinstall.

Removed old part and replaced with new part

This kit is not very easy to install. There are no photos to show you how to un-install the broken pieces. Our replacement kit was missing the screws, too, so I'm not happy with the replacement kit. We had to use some zip ties to maybe keep the new parts in place until I can get the correct replacement screws. It would be better if I could have ordered a rack with the side kit already installed. That would be the best for me.

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

I researched the internet about this symptom on the Kenmore Elite Dishwasher and I found lots of people with the same problem. Everyone fixed it by replacing the Bi-Metal Fuse. I removed the old fuse and tested continuity and it was indeed bad. Once the new fuse arrived I tested continuity and it of course worked as expected, so that was a nice wipe of the brow. The new Bi-Metal Fuse came with a nice instruction manual. I also used a video from YouTube to help with the repair as well, but the included instructions were enough. The only thing that was not clear was the best way to attach the new wire since it was quite a bit longer than what was orginially there. So I ended up just folding it up and putting everything back together and it worked just fine. This repair was very easy as long as you are OK with cutting and stripping wires in a somewhat confined space and not being too worried that you might mess it up for good... :)

First of all I appreciate the instructions provided by this site when I selected the part I needed! The installation was so easy. I popped the end caps off of the top rack guides and removed the top rack. I reach in and popped the clips holding the top sprayer bar and gently pulled down on the sprayer bar enough to place the spinner button in the top of the sprayer bar. Then pressed the spinner on the bottom of the sprayer bar into the button I place in the top of the sprayer bar and reattached the sprayer bar to the clips. Put the top rack back on the guides and replaced the guide caps and it was finished. Easy fix thanks to this site great instructions!

replaced the valve

Followed the easy how-to video from PS. It was as easy as changing a light bulb.

put new hose on, very easy.

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

Pulled upper tray out. Removed old adjusters and replaced with new. The pictures in the installation instructions were bad (blurry and hard to distinguish). Had problems with the first side button. Put it in before installing the wheel base on the second side. Went much easier that way. You did need a star tip for the screws.

Watch your video about my dishwasher symptoms. Move water tube for upper rack to the right and release lower spray arm. Remove 4 clutch head screws from filter cover and remove. Dig out 10 years of undisolved soap and reassemble.

I Removed the upper wash rack by removing locks on each front slide of rack. I laid a towel in the bottom of the washer to keep anything dropped, retrievable. I then removed the top screw closest to the spinner location. I then carefully pulled down on the mounting, which exposed the bad bushing lock. I removed the old bushing lock and replaced with new one. I then replaced the spinner with a push with one hand while holding the bushing in place with the other hand. You will feel a snap as all goes into place. Make sure new spinner spins freely. Now reinstall removed screw. Do not over tighten. Now reinstall lower rack, carefully aligning water feed in rear of washer, and making sure all rollers are back in sliding rack. Reinstall locking tabs onto sliding rack. Now slide out rack, it should not come off slider. Important: now remove the towel in the bottom of the washer. If left in place, you will have a fire during the drying cycle. Close the door and test your washer through a cycle. I felt confident and did a load of dishes. If all went well, spinner should be in place, not in the bottom of the washer.

Followed included instructions... worked like a charm!

really easy to repair... no power to control panel but had power from breaker box. Followed directions that came with part, self explanatory, took 10 mins.