JCGBS23DET1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

determined that the top of the burner was melted and malformed. Repair was simple: lifted off the damaged burner and slipped the new one in place.

We made a good choice ordering the part on line it was easy to fix save us a lot of money . Thanks a bunch! I would definitely order again on line if need . Very pleased

Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 year old oven,it was very easy/.

This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.

First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.

This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one screw at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.

The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.

This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.

I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.

The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.

Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.

When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.

I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.

Just put it on. Quite proud of myself for figuring out what and how to get the part however! The website was very helpful.

I removed the door and the racks, and the flame spreader. I removed the 4"X6" shield loosen the circular flap to plug the new igniter to the recepticle. Turn the oven on to check the operation and if it comes on, button it back up. remember open the oven door approx 3" and pull upwords to remove the door. I would say 90% of the time the igniter is the problem.

Took longer to open the box.

Once we knew which part was needed, we went on to your site and orded the part. It was delivered the next day! Partselect.com is bookmarked on every computer in our household, including mobiles. It's great to know there is such a fantastic resource for do-it-youselfers. It took 5 minutes to remove the old igniter and plug in the new. A screwdriver is the only tool required.

I cut the box open with a utility knife and removed the grill. I then opened the oven door and rearranged the two existing racks so that the third one would go in so they all have the same distance between each of them. I slid the new rack into position. It didn't go in smoothly though as I had to push it in and out several times so that it would line up perfectly. Finally in went in all the way. Then I closed the oven door and went and sat down to think about the wonderful job I just did.

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

I followed the "Test Procedures" on your site { VOM to test the Temperature Sensor and observed the intensity of the Igniter } and found both items were not at specs. Although your video did not depict my model oven exactly, it showed me enough details on how to get to and change out the parts. IE: The connector plug for the Flat Style Oven Igniter had to be accessed through the Warning Draw and not the Oven as shown in the video. A minor issue.
I found your test and safety procedures, how to video's and ease of ordering the required parts fantastic. Most importantly the parts arrived in one day and a half. A very satisfying experience, Thank you

Removed old gasket, did need to use pliers. However, it was easy. The new gasket just snapped in place ...super easy.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.

Order parts and installed - no tools needed - completed repairs less than 1 minute