JCD2595WES02 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Easy!!!!! Just cut the power to the unit and unscrew the boards. One is to the right of the ice maker and one is to the left. Snap the connecter on the old board so it will disconnect and replace it. It works perfect now. I had a service man come out and he quoted me $400.00. He told me I needed a whole new ice maker too. Not true. I simply email you guys and had the part in 3 days. It only cost me $80.00. I will use your site for every part I need. Thanks

I measured the part then looked for a similar switch that might work. I was so happy to find the exact part we needed for our 24 year old refridgerator!! I was so impressed with your slection of parts and best of all I had the part in 2 days! You are in my "favorites" just in case I need you again!

Thank you

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

I called a local appliance repair / sales store and he told me what to look for. There is an electronic "eye" on the "On / Off" panel in the freezer, and there is an electronic eye that sends a beam across to the other side where there is a receiver. If there is no beam, or the beam is obstructed --- for example when the freezer door is open the little "door" on the opposite side of the On / Off switch opens, interrupting the beam --- the icemaker will not work. In my case it was easy... there was no beam being sent across, so I KNEW it was bad.

Ordered the part, took out 6 screws total to remove the sender and receiver, removed the circuit boards with 3 more screws, replaced with new boards, and reinstalled.

Trust me - a 10 year old could do this. Don't be afraid because it involves "circuit boards" - it's literally one or two screws, replace the boards, screw them back in, and plug the two sides back in. ANYONE can do it... anyone!!!

I slid out the old shelf and slid in the new one. It arrived the day after I ordered it. Really expensive but great service.

Actually, the part that was broken was a part that contained the slide that allowed the drawer to pull in and out which was connected to another part that held the drawer to the side of fridge.

I went on line to Kitchenaid.com, clicked on parts which brought me to a PartSelect website that made it really easy to find what I needed. There is an audio instruction guide to help you find what you need. I ordered it and it arrived in the next day or two. To install it I just had to snap it into place. Since I was already on the website I went ahead and order a new water filter.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

On this model, access is very easy. The tray slides forward, and then lifting up with a little force at the back of it clears a stop, allowing it to slide out. This exposes two Philips/sq2 screws that hold the faceplate in place. The faceplate swings out and is lifted off the top edge. Disconnect the wire harness and set aside. Trace the cable from the door motor to the control board. Disconnect the cable and fish up behind the facing material. Remove screws holding the dispenser door mechanism. On that assembly, remove the screws holding the motor to the mechanism. Replace the motor. Put the mechanism back in place engaging the metal actuator arm in the door. Fish the cable down to the control board and plug in. Plug the faceplate wiring harness back in, and reinstall the faceplate. Secure with two screws and replace the tray. Done.

Remove ice drip tray to expose two phillips screws.
Remove screws
Pull out slightly and push up to detach at top. Move carefully to the right and expose electrics. Disconnect white connector carefully pushing on tab . Disconnect two pads black connectors in similar manner.
Remove ice maker panel. Remove pads from back by carefully pushing on tabs use a small flat head srew driver to push gently down and up and away from panel. Remove wire from white tape . Install the new pads by the reverse of removal. Carefully make sure wires are not pinched in electric unit on water side. Reconnect small black connectors and white power connector. Reinstall panel and insert screws. Replace ice drip tray. Viola complete

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

I removed the plastic portion to get to the switch and wires. I removed the old switch by disconnecting the two wires and pushing it out of its setting.

I discovered the old switch only had 2 prongs where the new switch had 3. Once I figured which 2 of the 3 prongs would light the lightbulb,
I then connected the two wires to the correct prongs of the new switch. I pushed the new switch into its setting and replaced the plastic portion on the refrigerator. Voila, success. The refrigerator door now comes on when its door is opened.

Thanks for the having the part and getting it at our door step in 3 days.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.