JCD2295KES Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the 5/16 inch hex head nuts holding the rear access panel where the power cord was connected. Once removed, I released the Molex plug and ground wire. I connected the new cord, screwed in the ground and installed the rear panel. Having the exact OEM part made the job quick and easy.

I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

Firts checked the parts received werer correct for the repair and the correct part numbers ordered. Then removed the ice bucket with the auger in bottom. Emptied ice from original bucket auger assembly. Checked out the removeal of the face cover for the bucket auger and removed it from clips that held it in place. Checked the specifications of the old ice bucket compaired to the new parts. Installed the aurger assembly into the new ice bucket and removed the two screws from the old unit to use in secure the auger assembly in the new bucket. The only tool needed was a 1/4 inch nut driver. Installed the face place on the new ice bucket auger assembly and tested the fit in the freezer. Ran test of the auger assembly without ice to ck for any misinstlled parts. Refilled the ice bucket with ice and tested with ice to complete the repair.

Diconnecting the hoses was a pain as there are no instructions. Draw a diagram of each hose and color of the connectors or better take a picture before starting. Make sure the water is off, have a bowl & towels ready to mop up the water that runs out of the hoses. You have to push each hose in along with the little top hat connector that the hose runs thru. With both pushed in, hold the top hat connector down and pull the hose up and out. I could not reconnect without a leak on the hose that has a spring in it if I slipped the hose thru the white bracket. I ran the hose outside of the bracket and it went right in with no leak.

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.

Followed instructions and installed dual water valve. Did Not Solve Problem! ... Then replaced Water Filter. This fixed "water flow problem" and "no, or hollow" ice cubes.

One day when i went to get ice our ice maker started to jam. When i took it out i noticed that the metal arm that turns was out of position and blocked due to the End cap being out of place. I then put it back in place and it happened again. The bucket cracked due to the pressure caused by the ice been . The only problem that i have now is that when i hit cubed ice, crushed ice comes out...and when i hit crushed ice, cubed ice comes out. The installation and swapping of parts wasw really easy. Partselect has great breakdown diagrams so if you get lost u can turn to them.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

proped up frig, loosened screws, cut pin, installed rooler w/ new pin, rounded pin end, reistalled, lowered frig...everyone happy, thanks again partselect.

Took the front panel off,replaced the parts inside on the door ,Replaced the panel ,Tested
Now found out that it is the solniod that is bad ,Part on order ,Thanks

The water valve for the ice maker / front water dispenser was relatively simple to repace. I never used these platic type of connectors to for the platic water tubing, but read a couple articles on how they work - I'm glad I did. To remove the tubing, you have to press the platic rings toward the valve, then the tubing slides right out. Just push the tubing into the ring to seat it. A handful of screws hold the valve and cover in place.
The new valve works, and I have a functioning ice maker again.

Removed ice container, replaced end cap that holds Auger shaft that connects to shaft that turns the Auger. End cap plastic nubs wear where it makes contact to the turning stub. Removing a few screws on the front of ice container allows the Auger shaft to slide forward and away from the end cap. Maneuver end cap from shaft, replace using same maneuver and that is it.
Pretty easy, even for a novice like me. A $6.00 end cap verses the whole assembly at around $70.00
I'm pleased.......

Took ice tray out, removed plastic decorative cover, remove the four nuts under the cover, slide out the ice auger assembly as one piece. do not take auger assembly apart. I repaired mine once, difficult without a schematic picture, many parts, replaced everything back into the new ice bucket. Easy job!