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JCBP35BL1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP35BL1BB
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nylon guide was broke off
took drawer out removed broken guide. It had 1 screw removed it put the new guide in place put screw back in. Put drawer back in stove, It works fine.
Parts Used:
Drawer Glider - Right Side
  • Lathan from Goodyear, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burner terminal block unstable due to corrosion; potential electrical fire hazard
This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • James from Tarpon Springs, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • emmett from rocky mount, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broiler element was sparking
I removed oven door so i could reach easier. Then removed screws from Broiler element at the back of the oven. Pulled off connected wires. Slid wire connectors on new element and screwed bracket in.
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • jeff from NEENAH, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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I broke the left drawer glide on our oven
I unscrewed to old glide and replaced it then re attached the screw
Parts Used:
Drawer Glider - Left Side
  • Keith from Freeport, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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The bottom strip had become rusty and looking badly
I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.
Parts Used:
Oven Door Bottom Trim - Black
  • Carolyn from North Port, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Actual temperature in oven was not consistent with the temperature setting
I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Martha from WILMINGTON, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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wire burned on surface terminal block
I am a 62 y/o single female and was able to make this exchange of parts with ease. The toughest was getting the old terminal's wire clips free from years of gunk! I was pleased with the ease of installation and that it really worked afterwards. By the way, thank you Parts Select for getting this part to me very quickly. If a novice can diagnose, find the correct part and install it with success then anyone could do the same.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • KATHY from SOUTH FULTON, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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aged burner bowls
I just removed the range elements and old bowls, placed the new bowls into the range top, and inserted the heating elements. What surprised me was the quickness in filling the order. I had the new parts the next day! Great!
Parts Used:
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Louis from Sandwich, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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old drip pans rusted
I unplugged the burner, lifted the old drip pan out, put new drip pan in, plugged burner in. The stove looks brand new and it took less than 2 minutes.
Parts Used:
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
  • noreen from torrington, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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burner not work
Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
  • SILVIA from Midlothian, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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stove surface unit arced and caught fire/sparks
I first unplugged the stove (alternatively, shut off the breaker). I unscrewed the terminal block screw from the stove top (after removing the stove element and burner bowl). I got in behind and removed the six screws in the sheet metal panel. Removed the panel. Unplugged the terminal block wires for each unit, one at a time, and immediately plugged in the new unit wires (after threading the wires up under the control panel). Wire polarity doesn't matter. Secured the panel temporarily with a couple of screws. Replaced the burner bowls and stove elements in the new terminal blocks. Plugged in the stove and tried each unit. Worked great! Secured the remaining screws in the rear panel and moved the stove back into place. Thanks so much!
Parts Used:
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch Burner Bowl - 6 Inch Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • dan from newport news, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drawer sticking and not operating smoothly
I was so sick of this drawer and I over heard a buddy telling a story about a website that you can get ANY piece for appliances. I take the drawer out, look up the website (partselect.com) look at the appliance diagram and find the missing piece. Order it, get it, install it. My wife thinks I'm a hero and I think I'm pretty cool too.
Parts Used:
Drawer Support
  • Bill from Philadelphia, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken drawer glider
Took off broken part and replaced it with the new part by removing a Phillips head screw, the broken part, replace with new and reinstalling the same screw.
Parts Used:
Drawer Glider - Right Side
  • James from RANCHO MIRAGE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Switch was not turning off range indicator light
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
  • Charles from PORTLAND, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the JCBP35BL1BB
31 - 45 of 151