JBS55DM3WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place, then I disconnected the two wires and pulled the element out. I ordered the part and received it within two days. It was very easy to install. My oven was tunning in less than half an hour.

Un plug the power first.

Took the old element out and removed two nut holding the element in place. Remved back access panel on the back bottom of the unit. Disconnected wiring to part pulling the clip off of the connector.

Done fixed saved the house call.

loosen interior panel of oven with star driver. Removed broken arm. install inner screw and then install final screw to both panels and handle.

The inner screw mount only through the exterior door only making it tricky to line up the final bolt which goes through both panels and the handle.

Other than that it when smoothly.

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

Pulled the range away from the wall. Took two screws off of top cover with 1/8th socket wrench. Took small Philips head screw off the top, just leaned the cover away from the top. It still held in slots at its bottom so no need to drop it away from the range. Removed the dial from the front exposing two small Philips head screws. Removed screws, and pulled the comptroller away from the rear of the range. Held the new one in the same position as the old one and removed one connection at a time, and replaced them into the new part. Did everything in reverse to put it all back together. Believe me, easy as could be and you just saved $200 repair man cost. Part matched old part exactly.

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

Consult the instruction guide that comes with the new part. Excluding doing some cleaning while things were apart, the operation took about 20minutes. 1. Open the oven door all the way. 2. Pull back the hinge latch on each hinge. 3. Close the door partially (about broil position). 4. Remove door by pulling so that hinges com out of the slots. 5. Carefully set door face down on a table so that inside of door faces up. 6. With a Torx driver, remove 2 screws at upper part of inside of door. 7. With a nut driver, remove screws at bottom of Door Bottom Channel Trim. 8. Lift inside of door off, being careful not to lose the spacers that are behind the door panel at the upper part of the door. 9. With the nut driver, remove 4 screws that hold bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 10. Remove the old trim and replace with the new. 11. Align the left, right, and bottom trim pieces. 12. Reattach the 4 screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 13. Carefully replace the inside door panel, making sure the spacers are aligned properly between the main door pieces. 14. With the Torx driver, replace the 2 screws at the upper part of the inside of door. 15. With the nut driver, reattach the bottom screws at the bottom of the trim piece. 16. Carefully reinsert the door hinges into the slots (the door must be in the approximate broil position). 17. When hinges are properly inserted, door may be opened all the way. 18. Push the hinge latches back into hinges to secure door to oven.

Replaced control panel after removing original control panel facing with heat gun and Wala

Ordered on Tues got part on Thurs used a nut driver removed 2 screws holding element in top of oven,then removed the 3 screws holding the element and thermostat to rear of oven pull about 3 inches of slack, removed the blade plugs from element placed them on the new element and assembled it. Took abou 30Min. Easier if you remove the oven door!

I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.

Replaced

First thing I unplugged the range. Then I unscrewed 4 screws in the back of the stove to take the back cover off. Then inside the oven, I unscrewed three screws to lossen the element. Then disconnected the two wires from the element.

Then replaced the old element with the new one going exactly backward as mentioned above finishing with plugging the range.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

First, UNPLUG OVEN. Then, remove oven door and place stove on work bench! JUST KIDDING!! Honestly, the repair would be easy if that were possible.The hardest part is kneeling, standing, hunching over, twisting your body holding flashlight in your mouth, etc...THEN, trying to re-attach wires screws etc. The repair is straight forward. unscrew all screws holding element in, pull element out about 6 inches, detach wires, and re-attach. Simple right? Maybe if you're 1 foot 2 inches tall or have 6 foot arms