JBP19BB1 General Electric Range - Instructions

I easily removed the element, then the socket I followed the wiring down beneath the drip pan to where it plugged into the control knob. I simply unplugged the old part and plugged in the new socket, rerouted the wires and assembled the stove top with a new burner in place.

Removed sensor from back wall of oven by removing 2 screws from flange. I could not pull the wire-nut connections out through the small hole and thought I would have to pull the whole oven out of the wall to acess the connections from the back so instead I clipped the wires close to the old sensor and connected the new sensor with the small wire nuts provided, then enlarged the hole in the oven wall, being careful not to pinch the wires then pushed the wire nuts and extra wire back through the hole and put the screws back in the flange.

I dis asymbled the door to access the broken end cap screw holders(plastic) Take great caution with the door glass. It is held in place by thin stamped steel slots and when taking the door face apart, the glass is free to fall out. I placed four strips of adhesive tape on the glass to hold it in place while I replaced the handle end caps. Use an electric screwdriver to place the retainer screws. It speeds up the work, and allows your other hand to stabilize the door. Caution to not over torque the steel screws. They screw into plastic and can strip easy. Another point: These replacement End Caps did not come with any supporting hardware - screws. I was lucky in that I retained the original screws and they were in good condition and could be recycled. Very impressed with the service, would recommend to all. Frighteningly fast delivery. I was shocked to see the box on my porch in just a few days.

R/
CSB

Parts ordered from Part Select arrived 2 days! after being ordered even though we selected standard shipping.

Old generic poorly fitting bowls were removed, replaced with correct GE chrome bowls from Part Select, changed out 8" surface burner and it feels like we have a new stove! It looks great. All the surface burners fit perfectly into the new chrome bowls.

I will definately be using PartSelect. for all my appliance repairs.

First I unplugged the stove, then lifted the stovetop, then took off the top panel on the back and disconnected the two wires. Then unscrewed the terminal block and put the new one in its place. Lowered the top inserted the eye and replaced the back panel. Works great!

This is the second time in a few months that I replaced this terminal block, so I made sure the contacts were clean and smooth. I also made sure the contacts were completely inserted in the block.

I was very impressed how quickly the package arrived. I would you your company again. I found you with a google search.

This was so easy. First pull stove out and disconnect plug in from the wall. Then, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I installed the new one in reverse order.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

It is too simple to go into lengthy discourse on repair. Just pull the old one out and put the new one in its place. No adjustment was required as it was a perfect fit.

Removed the burner coil.
Unscrewed the terminal block.
Pulled out the stove and disconnected the 220 Volt service at the plug.
Removed the back panel at the control knobs.
Detached the wiring to the control knob and pulled thru the back panel.
Wiring mostly visable to the front 8 inch burner.
Replaced wiring and mounted new terminal block.
Tested the burner for a few seconds.
Replaced back panel and set stove in place.
Saved $150 dollar service call.

I did not know what kind of tool was needed to remove the screws so I asked at the hardware store. When i said the screw was star shaped, he sold me torque wrench with multiple heads. First I removed the screw holding the broken handle in place. I cleaned surfaces. Next I attempted to put the handle in place on the horizontal bar and then put the screw into the opening. That did not work. I jiggled the handle for a while but could not get the pegs into the holes. Finally, I just held the handle in place and began to turn the screw and the handle slid into place as the screw got tighter.

This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.

Replace part an wires

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!