JB255RJ1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JB255RJ1SS
121 - 135 of 230

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Oven board went out
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jackie from TICKFAW, LA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on
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The light inside the oven had burned out
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. ... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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Bad Line fault displayed on range clock
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Vincent J Paola, from GREENWEL SPGS, LA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Usi ng a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.
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ONE OF SURFACE BURNER NOT WORKING
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • QUANG from LANCASTER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER EN DS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR
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The element broke in 2....
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • jannis from PHILLIPSBURG, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pull out wires & replace element by putting wires back in then tighten...done!!!!
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burner terminal block was worn out
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Mario from RENO, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the b urner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you
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Bake button stopped registering
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Ryan from COHOES, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.
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Replaced the outlet the one of the top burners on top of my stove, it went very well.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from MECHANIC FLS, ME
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.
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Oven no longer working after running the self clean option. Only Stove top burners worked
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Dominick from THORNWOOD, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above
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BASE OF BULB BROKE OFF & WELDED TO SOCKET
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • NEIL from ROCKY POINT, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
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The bottome heater element of my oven burned out.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from ALOHA, OR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I used pliers to remove the hex bolts from the old burner element and pulled out the terminals by hand. I ordered my part and was slightly concerned because the part number was different (this due to my oven being so old I guess). After reading another repair story on this site, when I got my new part, I turned off the electricity to th e range at the fuse box vs. unplugging the oven from the wall - because if I had pulled out the oven to access the plug, I would have had to re-caulk along the edges where it connects with my counter tops. I then slid the terminals into the female parts; this was a bit tricky because the female parts had receded behind the insulation in the hole in the back of the oven where they are located. I used small needle-nosed pliers to grab them and pull them forward enough to slide the new terminals in (by hand). I then put in the old hex bolts and used the pliers to tighten them. Flipped the fuse box switch and tried it out - worked great!
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THE FACE PLATE IS HARD TO GET OFF THE OLD CONTROL BOARD. USE A THIN KNIFE
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Melvin from WEBSTER, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.
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Oven door gasket was damaged and leaking
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Kerry from Sheboygan, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
I watched the repair video on YouTube and followed his instructions as much as possible. Went pretty well as I thought it would be harder. I’m pretty handy so, I was pleased.
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Two blocks kept shorting out.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Evelyn from FRANKLIN, NH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son h ad spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.
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Burnt Terminal Block
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bayani P. from DALY CITY, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplug the range before opening the back panel and removed the wiring connection and replaced with the new one
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All Instructions for the JB255RJ1SS
121 - 135 of 230