IUD8555DX4 Whirlpool - Instructions

Turned off water supply and electricity, removed the front kick panel on the dishwasher. Disconnected the water supply line, removed the two screws above the door securing the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from under the counter, replaced the spring and balance link for each side. I found that the new balance link kit that I purchased was better engineered that the origanal equipment.

Remove two screws at top that fasten dishwasher to cabinet. Slide dishwasher out to expose the two links that attach the door to the springs. Fit the new links to the springs and door.

I purchased this misguided by the official response to "Doug" on April 17, 2018, which at the time was labeled as "most helpful". This is NOT the little grommet in the center. This is a big grommet that goes no the supply pump. This is #14 in the diagram. (#15 is actually the clamp that holds it). If you are looking for the little grommet that goes on that stem on the central recirculation pump, that part is not available, it only comes fused on the sump, and for replacing the sump you have to disassemble the whole bottom part of the dishwasher, pumps, sensors, valves, hose...even this big grommet. A lot of work, and since you are at it, you might want to replace both grommets. If you need THIS big grommet (#14) only, then it is not so much work, just take out one clamp, one connected cable, and the grommet to replace. But check if your machine has reusable clamps, because if not, you might want to order a new clamp. Good luck!

Removed old gasket, cleaned track and replaced gasket-also quit using Cascade pellets and went back to using Cascade powder with a numerical "rating" of 6. The pellets of even 10 caused the washer to leak, obviously too much foam would not float the float to actuate the pump.

This kit comes with the link cords and the balance wheels. I only needed the cords. I undid the set screws under the counter edge and slid the Dishwasher out from under the counter. One of the links had a broken cord and the spring had snapped to the very back of the space and was a bit hard to find. I used the good side as a guide to see how to thread the cord correctly. I did not replace the wheels since they appeared to be in good shape and looked like they might be a bit more difficult to replace than just the cord. For a second I thought I had ordered the wrong part because the new cord's attachment point at the hinge did not look exactly like the originals but the new design worked just like the original. I did need one other person to help stretch the spring and hold the door in the best position so I could attach the cord to the hinge. It's working perfectly now and I saved the wheels in case I need them later.

First, ordering parts and getting diagrams from parts select is so efficient and make tthe installation so manageable. Using installation tips off the site gives u confidence to do it.
My issue was that I could not get the dishwasher from under the counter.
I removed the kick plate and screws holding it to the counter, but it was not coming out all the way. So I had to use a coat hanger to hook the spring. I attached the nylon cord first. Then I pulled the spring taut with the hanger and it was easy to thread the cord around the pulley system. I actually attached it to the door before tensioning the spring to make it easier.
Door works great now.

Took less than one minute

I removed the old gasket. Cleaned the surface under the old gasket and began pressing the new gasket into place. Make sure the gasket is pressed all the way in to properly seat it in the groove. Didn't use the tube of gasket sealer and it worked perfectly no leak,

I found instructions on line when I goggled my dishwasher name and model number with the words noisy door. There were three or four good suggestions at a couple of the sites I visited. I tried applying vasoline, then silicone to the rope where it travels through the plastic guides but that just cut the sound down about 50%. My dishwasher has plastic guides that look like rollers but they don't turn, they are fixed in place. The ropes squeak as the pass over the guides. The replacement part kit has plastic guides that turn like wheels now so the rope does not drag over them and squeak. This repair could be done by me in 20 minutes or less every time now that I know what I am doing.

I removed the black bottom metal cover then turned the nuts on the adjusting (leveling) bolts to lower the front end of the dishwasher so I could pull it out of the cabinet. Once I lowered is as low as it would go I opened the door and pushed down on it which tilts the dishwasher down and you pull out on it and the top lip clears the cabinet. If your dishwasher just pulls out the first time you try these steps may not be necessary.
Once the dishwasher is out the guides and rope are down at the bottom in the front by the door. It's obvious what to do to replace them.

Actually, the repair was very simple because of the you tube video demonstrating the repair. This made the repair very easy. I repair/replaced both springs and links

saw big hole in first (main) hose - got replacement at local hardware thinking it was the only problem - it wasn't - turned on the water and noticed another leak so ordered hose from parts select - fast delivery - installed 2nd hose but still a leak so ordered grommet from parts select - again prompt delivery - installed it and voila no more leak -
also checked for rat entry points, plugged those and put down bait - bait wasn't being taken under dishwasher even tho rat reappeared so put a snap trap in back - no luck so far - teachable moment: might have been cheaper to just get another dishwasher as parts are expensive and its difficult to tell extent of damage - luckily i only needed 3 parts = $150

Although the lower rack was a slightly different style than our original, it fit the dishwasher perfectly. We needed to transfer the silverware racks to the new rack and insert one set of removable tines. About 5 minutes and we are very happy with the repair.

Replace motor-pump. All was as advertised plus the surprise of included outlet hose. I didn't have the tool to operate the clamp, it leaked, so I replaced it with a stainless worm gear type.

Snapped the old one off and snapped the new one on.

Rolled out old, rolled in new.