IBD350DS00 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

REMOVED PANEL COVER [ 4 SCREWS]
UNSCREWED 2 SCREWS ON LATCH DOOR
ON THIS MODEL THE PART WAS IN TOO TIGHT OF QUARTERS SO I HAD TO LOOSEN A TOP PANEL SO I COULD RAISE PART HIGH
ENOUGH TO RELEASE IT FROM A CATCH AT THE BACK OF THE PART. PUSH PART BACK, RAISE AND PULL FORWARDS.
REMOVED 4 WIRES ONE AT A TIME AND ATTACHING TO NEW PART. REPLACED PART, TIGHTEN TOP PANEL AND REPLACED PANEL COVER.

NOT BAD FOR A 91 YEAR OLD

Easy peasy. After using the shop vac to remove the glass fragments, 8 Phillips head screws were all that I had to remove. The schematic on this website was close enough, but I recommend taking pictures as you disassemble.

Caveat: I took it apart several days before I got the part, so I had plenty of time for my forgetter to work.

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

ordered new broiler pan

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.