HTMX050EF3WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled the door off easily and noticed that the spacer on the Center hinge was ground down to nothing and that a small screw in the bottom plate of the door was half way out. This screw would catch on the cabinet Center hinge bracket and stopped the door from closing. Problem was solved by tightening the screw and putting in a new "spacer" that kept the small screws from contacting the Center hinge bracket. The freezer door now closes like new.

Replaced motherboard, parts select,very helpful in helping diagnose problem! Exchanged parts, credit account after returned parts. Great customer service All good stuff! They brought their A game for this diy-er...

-Pulled refrigerator out to access back.
-Removed compressed paperboard cover.
-Found compressor running by the feel.
-Removed metal cover to control board.
-Found ~5V coming from control board to inverter (variable frequency drive) board assembly attached to compressor.
-Found ~120 going to inverter board.
-Removed inverter board assembly from compressor.
-Found equal resistance (~7 ohms for mine) at all three contacts of inverter (DC) compressor.
-Ordered inverter assembly, plus one extra and control board for possible future use so not to loose all my food again; I might order a compressor so I have it before price goes up.
-Installed inverter when arrived.
-Used air compressor to blow out accumulated dust on condenser coil.
-Closed up and cleaned up (C^2).
-Fridge cooled and back to proper temperature the next day.

1. Turned off circuit breaker
2. Pulled out dishwasher
3. Disconnected switch and popped out switch
3. Popped in new switch and connected
4. Pushed dishwasher back into place
5. Turned on circuit breaker
6. Turned on dishwasher and it worked

I haven’t received the wheel yet. Originally ordered on Dec. 13. Hadn’t received it by Dec. 20. Finally shipped on Dec. 22. Tracking said it was expected to be delivered on Jan.2. Not delivered. Then it said it was still on its way but it was unknown when it would be delivered. Still waiting on Jan. 6. By far the most expensive economy shipping ever, as this refrigerator is in a rental that can’t be rented until a wheel is installed.

The hardest part of the repair was emptying the freezer, next was getting the fan off of the motor shaft, The only reason the job was difficult is because i am 67 years old and not as flexible as i used to be.I had a tough time getting the fan off of the motor shaft, but i got it off with the use of a vise, and had to use the hammer and a socket to install a new fan blade.

It's a very easy repair. However, there are no installation instructions included with the gaskets. Per videos I watched, it recommended that the gaskets be soaked in warm / hot water to make them more pliable when installing. Unfortunately, after installing the refrigerator gaskets, there were gaps that I could not seal resulting in an interior temperature of 48 degrees. For some reason, the gaskets appeared to be puckered thereby preventing a decent seal. I don't know if the puckering was caused by the soaking. I ended up reinstalling the old gaskets.

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

Removed two latch screws and one electrical connection, Removed
two screws that hold D/W to countertop, pulled D/W out enough to remove the old latch, install new latch, push D/W back into place, rescrew to counter top and rescrew the two latch screws. This problem happened since new, had repairmen twice and they did nothing but move the dishwasher stating it needed alignment, never mentioned this easy repair....

Looked up the replacement part on YouTube, watched a video and followed the instructions. Part ordered was the correct part and the video showed how to access for replacing. Watched a different video for hooking up the disconnected springs that allow the door to lower and close smoothly. Whole process for repairs was less than 30 minutes.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

My wife had the cover changed before I got home from work. Perfect fit for a replacement part!