HTDX100EM7WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.

Very Easy installation. Took the back panel off, disconnected the timer, replaced it with new timer from partselect.com., then I put everything back together and attached the knob. The dryer works great and no more pliers!. Thank you to the associate that help me make sure I had the correct parts, and I am very satisfied with the service. I would Recommend this sight to anyone. Thanks Again.

Popped off old knobs, popped in new. Sorry, nothin' to it or I would'a yelled HELP!

Very easy! Removed old parts, and installed new parts in reverse order. Dryer was running, and sounded like a new appliance in 35 minutes!

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

Pulled dryer out from wall and used screwdriver to remove back plate and screw holding timer controller. Once loose I then held new part next to old part and switched wires one at a time, afterwards I replaced back and pushed dryer back into position.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

I simply took the back panel behind the timer unplugged the old part and when the new part came in I hooked it back up in less than 5 minutes. I did mark each wire to match order I took them out.

Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.

I just removed old parts And put the new part on it was very easy to do.

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

remove the broken one and replace it with the new one

stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.

Replaced the rear drum bearing, Front drum bearing,front bearing tabs and belt. I replaced the belt from the front of dryer. Better to go thru the back. Much easier.