HTDX100EM7WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn ... Read more 't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.

Very easy! Removed old parts, and installed new parts in reverse order. Dryer was running, and sounded like a new appliance in 35 minutes!

Replaced the rear drum bearing, Front drum bearing,front bearing tabs and belt. I replaced the belt from the front of dryer. Better to go thru the back. Much easier.

Popped off old knobs, popped in new. Sorry, nothin' to it or I would'a yelled HELP!

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

Pulled dryer out from wall and used screwdriver to remove back plate and screw holding timer controller. Once loose I then held new part next to old part and switched wires one at a time, afterwards I replaced back and pushed dryer back into position.

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

I simply took the back panel behind the timer unplugged the old part and when the new part came in I hooked it back up in less than 5 minutes. I did mark each wire to match order I took them out.

Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.

I just removed old parts And put the new part on it was very easy to do.

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my op ... Read more inion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

With the help of doityourself guy on the internet