HTAP1100F1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.

First I removed the screws that held the hose drain hose clip in place. Removed the damaged hose. Placed the new drain hose clip at the end of the new drain hose. Re-inserted back in hole, pushed in hose to necessary depth then tighted screws, Very easy and painless.

To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the legs in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.

Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!

I had our reliable handyman take a stab at it after he determined what the issue was, and after we'd already tried a new knob and a new clip. Here's what he described as the issue: "Bottom line :the gears are to weak to take any force and break off. They need to be made of a strong metal not plastic. I also believe that the timer gear was binding and put more force on the gears."

Used 1" puddy knife to depress spring loaded retainer tabs. Front panel is removed by prying the top of the front panel away from the machine. Lift front panel to release bottom from machine. Set panel aside. New belt is installed by placing it on the drive pulley and then rolling belt onto the motor pulley. Rotate the motor by hand while moving belt so it is properly seated on pulley.

I attached the Drain Hose Clip to the Drain Hose Extension and then pushed the drain hose all the way into the drain hole in the back of the machine. I then screwed the clip to the machine. Done. Very painless. Fast delivery... ordered it on Monday, arrived on Tuesday.

Thanks to comments already summited to Partselect I was prepareed for the worst. Once I figured out that you remove the agitator assembly with a swift jerk I was able to access the lower portion of the tub. As others have found out the aluminum nut holding the inner tub can not be removed without a hammer and chisel. Once you get past that things go well. What is left is cleaning the components and re-assembling.

The video with Steve is invaluable. I followed the video to replace the tub bearing. Had to jump over to the tub seal video to make sure I got it seated into the outer tub correctly. The tub bearing video skips past the seal part. Be aware that the video cut aways can be a considerable amount of time. Highly recommend a few things: 1) if you think you need to replace one of the things on my parts list (bearing, washer, seal, etc) then just replace everything at once. It's not worth it to try to reuse old nasty parts. All of the parts + 1 11/16 spanner wrench came to around 60 bucks. 2) get the washer out of its confined area and give yourself some room to work on it. I took the time to shuffle it out into my garage and setup a table to spread out the parts and tools. This procedure is a complete washer dismantle job. So take your time and be patient. 3) the aluminum hub nut is a bugger. I had to use penetrating oil and make a couple of small angled cuts with a hacksaw to relieve the tension between the nut and transmission shaft. 4) the main lower tub bearing (bushing) was also a bugger and all gummed up and rusty. Be very careful getting it out. You don't want to ruin the integrity of the outer tub cavity that it goes into. Light taps and patience using the butt end of a hammer and flat blade screwdrivers. From beginning to end, with a few breaks to let the penetrating oil do its thing, it took about four hours. I took my time, reviewed the videos throughout that time, and I've never worked on a washing machine before.

- Troubleshot fill valve first. OK
- Followed leads to temperature selector switch.
- Checked resistance and live voltage at switch.
- Determined switch had failed on "hot" side.

1. SECURED POWER
2. Removed four torx screws on top of dashboard.
3. Removed six sheet metal screws from dashboard back.
4. Removed 4 leads from bad switch (one at a time).
5. Placed leads on new switch (one at a time).
6. Removed existing switch.
7. Installed new wired switch.
8. Re-installed dashboard back and top screws.
9. Op-test sat.

Used the repair instruction paper behind the washer control panel and used the online parts diagram. Also the online responces from other customer repairs gave me the idea to take a small pipe wrench (with a sock over the bottom of handle) and tap it with a 10 lb sledge hammer to remove the alumium hub nut. *** It is a backwards threaded nut **** I did not know I was going the wrong way until I looked at the new nut and noticed it's reverse threaded!!! After that it was just taking everything apart and putting it back the way you found it.

went very well thank you

I used a butter knife to pop plastic clips that hold the front panel to the top panel, one clip on each side of front cover. I never thought the new belt was going to fit, it barely fit on the big pulley, much less around the small pulley too. It needs to be stretched a lot to get it on.. but it will fit :)

I used needle-nose pliers to remove the lock tab and , in seconds, I replaced the knob !!!

read about the problem ordered the part and then installed