GW399LXUQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

1. Turn power off and loosen and remove screws. Pull out sensor from mounting hole and expose wire connector. Remove old sensor. Select appropriate wire adaptor and reconnect the sensor. Carefully push connector through hole and secure with screws removed previously. Turn power back on and cycle oven to make sure oven operates properly. If you have an oven thermometer it can be used to compare set point of oven to thermometer to make sure readings are the same. All done! Happy wife can now bake cookies again and now I can go back to man cave for other projects!

I ordered a new igniter and when it arrived, i removed the door from the oven. It just lift's off. I had to removed two screws from the bottom plate to gain access to the igniter. Remove the two screws from the igniter and unplug it from the back of the lower back of the stove. Place the new igniter where the old one was and plug it in. Put new screws in and tighten them down. Put the bottom plate back in its place with screws tightened. Put oven door back on and turn on the oven. That's all there is to it. Your done.

1. Remove the oven door by opening a few inches and lifting straight up. Remove racks to access it. 2. The old igniter is just held in by two nuts that have a screw head in the middle of them so they could be removed by a nut driver or by a screwdriver. Unfortunately, both of our screws threads were terribly stripped and after first trying to use pliers to help remove them, we ended up using a dremel tool to cut them off. 3. unplug the old igniter and take it out. 4. Plug in the new igniter. 5. attach the two screws. (our time on the repair was mostly spent trying to find two screws around our house that would replace the two that were stripped--otherwise this would have been 15 minutes). 6. return the door and racks by the sliding the door downwards onto the hinges

Removed door and bottom oven pan to expose igniter. It was held in place by two sheet metal screws. Tried to back them out but due to heat damage , they stripped. I used my versa tool with a metal blade to cut the screws. I removed the old igniter and disconnected the plug, after I guided it out from the insulation. I installed the new igniter with two new self tapping screws after I connected the plug and guided it back through the insulation. Reinstalled the oven pan and door. I set the oven to 350° and the new igniter worked. Wife is happy and I saved the repairman fees.

removed inside bottom of oven, removed 2 screws that held the ignighter, pulled out the oven, removed one screw on small cover, unpluged old ignighter, removed old ignighter, pusned the wires through the back of the oven, plugged ity in, attached the nerw ignighter, and replaced the cover/ and the bottom of the oven.
i teted the oven before i closed everything to insure it would light.

First I removed the oven racks, then the bottom cover over the burner. I then unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter on to the bracket on the burner tube. I then removed the storage drawer and loosened the two screws holding the metal shield in place. I then unclipped the electrical connection to the ignitor and pushed it up past the insulation. I then went back into the oven and pulled the wires and connector through. The old igniter was out!

Installation of the new one was just as easy. Screwed the new igniter onto the backet, stuck the electrical connector through the hole in the back of the burner tube, and connected it. I then replaced the shield and the storage drawer, replaced the bottom pan over the burner tube and the racks. The stove works perfectly and my wife is happy. The job couldn't be easier.

replaced heat sensor

one screw holds the cover to the connector. one screw for the burner tube to the oven frame. two screws hold the ignitor bracket/assembly to the burner tube. that's it. take four screws off and disconnect. connect and put four screws back on.

Removed the drawer from under the stove then unscrewed the access panel in the back (two phillips head screws). Rather than take it off altogether I just swung it to one side.

The ignitor electrical connector required two hands to disconnect and it was a bit of a reach but came apart easily enough once I got hold of it.

Removed the racks and bottom from the oven. the bottom is held in by two pins in the back that you just slide toward the front then lift it out. I did not bother to remove the oven door, but some people might.

Then removed the two hex head screws holding the ignitor on and pulled the connector out of the hole leading to the bottom.

Installation is the reverse of removal The electrical connector was reluctant to back down the hole, but went with a little wiggling and pulling from underneath. Once you get it back down there the connector is keyed, so you can't get it wrong.

Piece of cake, really.

Total repair time: about 30 minutes, including the mandatory halfway beer break.

Removed oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. Pulled out racks and removed bottom of oven. Unscrewed wingnut and removed burner shield. Removed 2 screws that hold igniter and unplugged the connection. Reverse the procedure to put it all back together.
Be patient, it takes a few moments for it to begin heating when you first turn it on.
So easy a woman can do it ! I know,(I am one).

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

Husband did repair. He removed the
the ignitor. Was a little difficult to remove. I couldn't tell you what he did and in what order.

I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.