GW397LXUB06 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Bought new hinges as that was the obvious problem.
Below is the removal, installation process for new hinges. Turns out in my case there was nothing wrong with the hinges. Problem was still there after installing new ones. I found that the metal in the door that butted against the hinges was fatigued causing looseness. I ended up compressing the metal back into shape with a hammer. Problem solved but money wasted on hinges.
If you replace hinges. Here is what I did.
1. Open door slightly to where it stops in broiler position.
2. Remove the door by pulling up.
3. Remove two screws in front of hinges that hold them in.
4. Pull range out a few inches for access the remove the side fillers that trim out the stove.
5. Reach in from the side and work hinges out.
5. Pop in new hinges and reattach the 2 front holding screws and the side trim screws.
You are done.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Leveler screw in. Adjust to height of counter top since stove has lip that rest on counter top. Oven lens cover difficult to unscrew. Use rubber glove to get better grip!

Easy repair for anyone!
First, cut the power to your stove to be safe (breaker switch in the fuse panel).
-Pull the stove out so you can get to the sides. There is a screw on either side, near the top of the side, and front. Unscrew both.
-Remove the 2 screws on the top panel, and 4 screws underneath the front lip.
-The front panel is now free. Peel off the old sticky touch pad, unplug the two ribbon connectors (push in on the locks on the sides of the plug-in), and set aside.
-Thoroughly clean the surface , removing all sticky residue.
-Plug the new pad in, peel back the sticky protective paper, and carefully align the new pad, pressing it firmly into place when lined up properly.
- Set the panel in place, replace all screws, push the stove into place, turn on the power and bake a cake!

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

Considered calling a repair facility, after reading your tips and what parts should fix what problem I decided to fix myself. Moved oven out,slide in gas range. Took off probe and tested with volt ohm meter, read 1090 ohms, should have been good. I could see oven igniter glow red, but I decided to replace both units, glad I did. Oven go's from 100' to 350' in 8 minutes now, for less than $85.00 have a fully functioning oven now. I'm sure the repair would have exceeded $300.00 or more being we live in a rural area. Thanks for the tips from your experts as well as you customers.

Took the bottom out of oven then removed and replaced with the new part. VERY EASY! I'm a 70-year-old woman and do quite a few home repairs myself.

First I changed the temperature sensor and when it didn’t get hot I Also changed the igniter. Fired right up.

Watched first warranty repair tech preform first costly replacement by removing 8 panel screws on face of oven. Same malfunction twice in last 4 years. The second and third replacement I did myself with just my trusty screw driver. Tip: Keep order receipt handy for easy reorders.

Removed door and bottom oven pan to expose igniter. It was held in place by two sheet metal screws. Tried to back them out but due to heat damage , they stripped. I used my versa tool with a metal blade to cut the screws. I removed the old igniter and disconnected the plug, after I guided it out from the insulation. I installed the new igniter with two new self tapping screws after I connected the plug and guided it back through the insulation. Reinstalled the oven pan and door. I set the oven to 350° and the new igniter worked. Wife is happy and I saved the repairman fees.

replaced heat sensor

First I removed the oven racks, then the bottom cover over the burner. I then unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter on to the bracket on the burner tube. I then removed the storage drawer and loosened the two screws holding the metal shield in place. I then unclipped the electrical connection to the ignitor and pushed it up past the insulation. I then went back into the oven and pulled the wires and connector through. The old igniter was out!

Installation of the new one was just as easy. Screwed the new igniter onto the backet, stuck the electrical connector through the hole in the back of the burner tube, and connected it. I then replaced the shield and the storage drawer, replaced the bottom pan over the burner tube and the racks. The stove works perfectly and my wife is happy. The job couldn't be easier.

one screw holds the cover to the connector. one screw for the burner tube to the oven frame. two screws hold the ignitor bracket/assembly to the burner tube. that's it. take four screws off and disconnect. connect and put four screws back on.

Removed the drawer from under the stove then unscrewed the access panel in the back (two phillips head screws). Rather than take it off altogether I just swung it to one side.

The ignitor electrical connector required two hands to disconnect and it was a bit of a reach but came apart easily enough once I got hold of it.

Removed the racks and bottom from the oven. the bottom is held in by two pins in the back that you just slide toward the front then lift it out. I did not bother to remove the oven door, but some people might.

Then removed the two hex head screws holding the ignitor on and pulled the connector out of the hole leading to the bottom.

Installation is the reverse of removal The electrical connector was reluctant to back down the hole, but went with a little wiggling and pulling from underneath. Once you get it back down there the connector is keyed, so you can't get it wrong.

Piece of cake, really.

Total repair time: about 30 minutes, including the mandatory halfway beer break.