GTD45EASJ0WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

pulled out old one put in new one

First I called to get help with the right part and they told me I needed the pus-to-start-switch. It came in and I called my handyman Ed to install it. I am happy with your service. I dont install but just got the part in.

Advice from others with same problem on your web site was very helpful. I removed one of the three torx screws holding the deflecter, Used 2.5 star-drive screw diver bit and cordless drill/driver. Replaced 2 of three torx screws holding the deflecter with the headless brass screws, Using vice grip to tighten. Removed third torx screw and removed old deflector. Used shop vac to clean behind it. Installed new deflector, sliding it over the 2 headless screws, then installing one of the torx screws, then replacing the brass screws with original torx screws, one at a time.

I popped the door switch out with a small screwdriver, disconnected the electrical connection and re-connected the new switch and popped the new switch in place with a little adjustment.

Dryer wouldnt work. I was out of town when dryer stopped working. My grandmaother, who I live with, had brother came over to troubleshoot. He spent a good amount of time and couldnt figure out the problem.
When I returned home I tried it and immediately knew the knob was stripped because it didnt make the clicking noises. I verified by seeing where flat section was, then turning with knob and then seeing if flat section moved. Ordered new knob. Pulled old one off and put new one. Worked like a charm

Tried to replace with home-store bought 6w light. Looked the same, fit into socket, but didn't work. Actually exploded when I turned it on! Be sure to use OEM part like this one. Worked perfectly!

No repair, just replace the old with the new. Fast delivery.

Took the top and front end of the dryer off. Took the old slider spacers off and installed the new ones. I replaced all four of them even though only two was bad. While I had the dryer open I decided to use my shop vac to clean up the lint that had accumulated there. Replaced the front and the lid plugged it up, hit the start no noise just like new.

Took out frayed lint filter and put in new lint filter

My GE electric dryer timer became very difficult to turn and eventually stripped the knob. First I unplugged the dryer. Then removed the upper back panel exposing the timer. There is only one small allen screw plus built in slots holding the timer. There are many wires connected to the timer so I took a picture just in case. I removed the timer and let it hang by the wires. I then pulled one wire at a time and reattached it to the new timer. All went well and the dryer works like it was new again. The most difficult thing was replacing the small screw holding the timer. I then replaced the back panel and attached the new knob. There’s no need for a professional repair person for this problem. From start to finish was less than 30 minutes.

My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.

Found the dryer's high limit thermostat had opened up.
Likely cause was excessive lint buildup in exhaust vent pipe to outside.
Used wire nuts to "temporarily" bypass thermostat and cleaned out the vent pipe
When new part arrived...

Removed control panel screws and panel was laid on top of dryer
Removed back panel screws.
Removed top panel screws. Lifted to allow right side swing out slightly.

I did not have sufficient tool to reach the thermostat therefore I reamed out a hole in the rear panel above the thermostat fastener screw to allow a long handle screwdriver into the area for replacement.

Removed temporary bypass and used wire nuts to utilize dryers' thermostat existing wiring.

REMOVED BACK COVER
REMOVED THE SCREW HOLDING THE COMPONENT TO THE FRONT
TOOK PHOTO OF HOW THE COLOR WIRES CONNECT
REMOVED THE WIRE (TOOK THE LONGEST, HAD TO USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO BREAK THE TAB FEMALE TAB LOCKS.
RE-WIRED THE NEW CONTROL
PUT PLATE BACK ON
DRY NOW RUNS AS INTENDED

Just put new lint filter in slot
I had torn the screen on the original one

removed old lint trap cleaned excess lint that fell inside from the broken lint trap made it easier for new lint trap to slide in.