GSE22KEWNFSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed ice bucket and emptied. I then removed screws that held the covers in place. Next I removed the snapring that held the auger in the covers and removed auger assembly. Replaced both covers and reassembled.

You must have a nutdriver to replace this part. No wrench or pliers will fit in the space to loosen any of the nuts.

You cannot simply replace the bracket, because it's connected to the ice-maker assembly and it's a very snug fit. Therefore, you must remove the bracket on the opposite wall to give you room to angle the assembly and slip on the new bracket.

Be careful when you're screwing the nuts back in, especially the two in the back of the freezer. It's a difficult angle to keep a grip, and it's easy to drop the screws into the freezer (and then you have to fish them out of the bags of frozen peas)

1 - Remove the nuts from the broken bracket.

2 - Remove the nuts from the bracket on the opposite wall.

Now you have room to maneuver.

3 - Angle the ice-maker assembly and slip off the old bracket, and then slip on the new bracket.

4 - Align the brackets over the holes and screw in each nut.

The most difficult part was screwing in the two back screws when replacing the brackets onto the freezer walls. It's a pretty simple job that requires no muscle.

I tried to quite the noisey evap motor with special liquid motor grease from Radio Shack. It did not work, so I ordered the evap motor. My freezer motor was wired slightly different than the motor I received. The replacement motor had a male plug attached to the four wires, the original motor was different, so I cut the wires and spliced them into the original freezer wires (colors were the same). Remounted motor. Works great, and no more groaning motor
Peter

Took out the old, put in the new. Problem solved.

I am 80 years old, female. Repair was a challenge but I was determined as my son said Mom you can do it. The video was wonderful. and I did a lot of rewinding etc. Hardest part was taking apart.. screws tough. All in all not bad. I don't want to do it for a living though!!!!! Ice is now dispensing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!

1. Removed the back panel of the fridge to get access to the inlet water valve.
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white gasket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.

Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.

to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.

The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.

Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape

I removed the original shelf, took the glass portion off of the bracing and installed the replacement. The replacement was square and fit just fine so I installed it, put the shelf back on top and it works fine.
It was so easy to order the part through here. There were picture breakdowns so you could see exactly what you needed and order the correct part.

several times I had to remove the ice maker door solenoid due to it sticking. I ordered a new one from parts select. Problem solved!!!

removed 4 screws in order to view and remove auger. removed metal and set washer on back of auger. This step not difficult. This will release auger from plastic ice resovoir. Again, not difficult. Remove plastic nut after removing auger. This procedure will release crushed ice blades and 5 plastic washers, 3 flat and 2 raised. You have got to remember order of blades and washer. Again draw diagram take pictures. Very, very important. Put back as taken apart. Good Luck

To take the ice dispenser apart is not difficult. A ring removal tool would have helped to remove the auger. The Auger nut was difficult to remove and I used a visegrip to pull it off. Once the retaining ring was removed the repair was easy.
Never did it before but figured it out.

Watched a parts.com video on how to change defrost thermostat and followed the instructions

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.

I agree with the other posts that suggested taking a picture of the blades and spacers before taking the auger out, makes it so much easier to put it back together in the same way. The only difficult part was holding the two tabs apart while removing the unit, you need a second person to help with this. I used two small screw-drivers to gently pry the clear plastic box away from the white plastic holder, while my helper pulled the holder loose. Keep in mind that the plastic nut that holds the auger in place is a left hand thread. Went back together very easy and it's working great.

Removed the bottom front cover, under the two doors, unclipped the water line to have better access, removed old Union connector, cut about a 1/4' off each side of the line, pushed both sides of line in Union Connector, checked for leaks, all done.