GSB2800E*119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

This is erins dad. She just bought her first home and it was missing the basket. I went online found your company and ordered.

remove bottom tray and rear cover from inside washer.then remove PISTON NUT ASSEMBLY CHECH VALVE by turning it to the left. replaced with new valve assemmbly. IT IS workng like NEW.TOOK ME 30 minutes.VERY EASY!!!!!!!!!!thankyou allfor the help.

Just remove the 4 screws at the lower rear inside the washer to remove screen holder...then unscrew the Piston and Nut Assembly by hand. Put in the new unit, reattach the screen holder with the 4 screws...and the job is done. Probably takes less than 5 minutes....very easy.

Simply took out old and put in new

Just plopped it in, it fit perfectly! I love it! Very easy to order the part, and very fast shipping! I order it and it took a day to get to me!

I pulled the old basket out with my right hand and inserted the new basket with my left hand! HA! Maybe 5 seconds!

Just set it in as it was exactly as described and ordered.

Remove lower panels, turn off hot water supply, Turn off breaker to dishwasher. notice how power connector is orientated and how valve is mounted to chassis of dishwasher and remove Molex connector which supplies power to valve. The power to the valve is 120VAC when the timer gets to the appropiate cycle I measured the valve with no connector attached with DVM set to Diode or ohms setting and got about .825. I measured the NEW part and measure about the same. Have towel under valve hoses for small amount of water will come out. remove small diameter hose , inlet water supply, remove 2 screws holding part with nutdriver to remove valve which exposes the black hose attached to valve. Hose has a hose clamp, use pliers to remove. good time to check and clean hoses. I unwrapped a coat hanger to run through the hoses for debris. to INSTALL reverse the above. clean water away from floor with towel. Turn on hot water supply, check for leaks, I did not have any leaks. Turn on breaker. You can stick a stubby screwdriver into the door close switch of front door which enables you to turn on (swing arm) dishwasher with door open to check water pressure. I have a great deal more water pressure and water from jets spray much higher than before. Old valve was clearly bad, but solenoid of valve still worked, which sucks in the arm when energized. I used a DVM on the 2 wire connector on valve to check for 120vac when cycle turns it on-measured good. I still don't have quite the same cleaning as before. It is 80% better, but something is still not right. My wife put in one of those pot cleaners (red) mesh plastic thingy on top rack--and found pieces of red mesh plastic in debris area, cleaned it out as best I could removing the 2 covers, but not sure valve is opening there or debris is clogged in there which sends pieces of food, etc. through hose to garbage disposal. Hose wasn't clogged. Cleaning better but wife is still saying not as good. The Pump is running good, cleaned dust and dirt out of pump with vacuum. 10 years old, thinking of removing dishwasher from counter and checking the pump area or change it.

Remove the screen that runs along the back of the dishwasher.In the middle of the area that was covered with the screen you will see a white plastic valve with 2 little ears sticking up. Use the nose of a pair of pliers to twist counter/clockwise on the valve and it will come right out. Inspect the valve.If the rubber cone shaped valve inside the valve can be pushed through the top of the valve ,the valve is bad.Replace it and go wash your dishes.

Removed the 4 1/4" screws holding the rear screen to the bottom of the inside of dishwasher. "Piston & Nut" assembly was badly corroded- to the point that no dirty water was leaving the dishwasher. Because the appliance is at least 10 yrs old and there was nothing happening during the rinse cycle, I initially assumed the worst- that the pump was bad. After reading the other descriptions of the problem here, I said, "what the hell?, if a $20 part fixes it, I'll be amazed- if not, I'm out $20 and looking at another $300 for a new dishwasher!" The $20 part (inc. shipping) did the trick. Thank you, and your website is on my "highly recommended" list! One note- the piston & nut assembly did offer some resistance as you might expect after being "gunked" in place for 10 years. However, the top has some lugs or ears built into it, so a few taps with a hammer on my largest straight-blade screwdriver loosened it right up...

Looked online for a general cause. ABout 60 to 80 percent, the cause was the piston and nut assembly located in the back of the dishwasher. Ordered the part and installed in nothing flat. Only four nut screws to remove the take the filter off and unscrew the piston and nut assembly. Next cycle, no water and the drying cycle seemed to be better. Guess because no water in the bottom of the dishwasher. Good input and fast turn around on the part.

i unscrewed the 4 screws in the back, took off the guard thing, and unscrewed the existing part with my hand. put new part in and ran dishwasher. the part did not fix the problem, now i'm on to maybe replacing solenoid? i have no idea. this part was simple to replace though. hope i can fix this issue, i need my dishwasher to run right!

remove the four screws in the back of dishwasher on the inside. Remove screen. Remove the piston nut assembly for the check valve. Re-install the screen and four nuts and your done.

I put on my rubber gloves, removed the lower wash rack, removed four screws from the drain guard. I unscrewed the defective part, installed the new assembly and hand tightened. Replaced the cover and installed the screws removed earlier. Re installed the lower tray, and ran the rinse and drain cycle. It has been working beautifully ever since.

After running a test cycle and realizing the pump was working but not pumping all the water out, I checked the troubleshooting guide and parts list.
I found there was a check valve at the back of the machine and when I removed it I saw it was split causing the water to return into the unit. I ordered and replaced the check valve and the unit is back in perfect operation.