GRCR3960ZBB-1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Lid Switch.
Rewiring connection.
Function is satisfactory.
Fan belt ordered is saved.
A 1970 Clothes Washer.

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!

Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.

The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.

(Followed the ORIGINAL manufacturer's instructions for assembly we retained when purchasing the appliance.) Replacing the broken handle end involved removal of the LEFT handle end as well as the broken RIGHT end, the center rod handle, and unscrewing the outer door face from the inner door face. Had to find specialty screwdriver for non-standard screw heads. Sigh. It was impossible to replace the door handle, as it requires removing the entire door - It is too heavy for one person to hold in place while the 2nd person tried to blindly replace screws thru a 1/2 inch slit in the outer and inner door pieces. Hiring a handyman is impossible leading up to the holidays, so we decided to just buy a new stove. Something that should be really simple to replace for less than $50 is now a major budget outlay due to a crappy design.

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

Turned off power. Opened range door, removed 2 screws that held top in place. Took a photo of the existing wiring for reference. Removed old burner. Be careful with spacers & springs. If dropped, they will be hard to locate in the insulation. Replaced wiring connectors & verified proper location with photo. Closed cover, replaced 2 screws & turned on circuit breaker.

Remove two screws with nut driver that holds range top down. Turn off breaker or unplug before lifting top. Brace top with 2x4. Take picture with cell phone just in case. Orient replacement part with old burner. Remove one wire at a time and install on new burner in corresponding correcting terminal. be sure they are snug. Drop top install nuts . Test! Done! I am not an electrician!!!!!!!! Please do not publish !!!!

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

Unscrew the metal rim and remove the glass window. Remove the old bulb by twesting the bulb towards you. Place the new bulb's pins into the slots and twest away from you. Place the metal rims back in place and screw them down.

Remove two screws to loosen the ceramic top....prop top open and change part...the part was exactly the same...change wires from one to the other and transfer clamps.....1st grade craft class would have done it in half the time I did......you folks have your parts inventory and description application to a science.....God Bless

1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner assy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.

Very easy. Unpluged range from outlet, took two screws from the front under side of the range top, raised cook top up, took off four wires from burner, removed two screws than holds burner on cook top, replaced with new burner, installed two screws that hold burner in place, installed the four wires to burner, lowered cook top back into place replaced two screws that hold cook top down, pluged back into outlet. DONE!