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GPRE8350K3WT General Electric Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the GPRE8350K3WT
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Had to replace drive belt on washer
I removed the front cover on washer I tied wrapped one side of the belt to to the back pulley and placed the belt on the the motor pulley then placed the belt installer on pulley below belt with gloves on I started rotating the pulley in the back and when it started getting s little tight I moved pulley back and forth then started turning in clockwise direction again and belt went right on.i cut the tie wrap after making sure belt was secured and evenly on then turned pulley to make sure belt was secured removed belt installer and replaced front cover.i am a 57 yr old woman and did this job by myself.so easy when you have the belt installer also.
Parts Used:
6-Rib Drive Belt
  • Amy from ROCHESTER, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Make sure you have something to secure the belt to the big wheel.
It was hard for me. I'm a 54 year old woman. I tied it to the wheel with twine. It kept popping off, right it the time I would just about have it on. Several times !!!! I had no zip ties. Finally I tied the part of the craft stick on tightly. Put the belt on the motor rod and as much of the wheel as it would allow. Started turning slowly. There's really no room. I finally wiped it. There was one time that I sounded like the man off the movie Christmas Story. My youngest daughter is 13. She started laughing. It wasn't easy but I BLESS GOD for it. Thank all of you so much. Be safe and take care.
Parts Used:
6-Rib Drive Belt
  • Wanda from OHATCHEE, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
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water was dripping down onto the belt and stopping movement
front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..
Parts Used:
Tub Seal Split Ring
  • B. from WILLISTON, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Broken Belt
The video on your site on the page for this belt was perfect. Really just using a tie wrap to hold the belt as you spin it to put in place was a very helpful idea. It was easy and less expensive than a new washer!
Parts Used:
6-Rib Drive Belt
  • John from CONYERS, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Water would not pump out of the unit or spin
If you follow the video that part select provides you will be just fine.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
  • Charles from SHIRLEY, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
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Would not completely drain all the water out of the tub after the final rinse cycle, with a burning smell from the belt because it could not turn properly.
I followed previous parts select customers advice exactly, of replacing the dampening straps, and it worked perfectly. Thanks-A-Million!
Parts Used:
Tub Dampening Strap
  • William from Cumberland, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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old drain hose was cracked
old one out, new one in. new one is seated, but not a perfect match bracket to hold hose in washer does not fit on this replacement hose properly. But I feel comfortable with the result & use
Parts Used:
Drain Hose
  • Dirk from State College, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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cracked drain pipe
Remove two bracket screws. Removed hose. Put new hose in place using same bracket and screws. inserted end of hose into washer drain. Secured hose to cold water hose with two zip ties.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose
  • Belinda from FLORENCE, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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The water was not draining.
I googled "water not draining washer" and found a video made by Partselect.com on youtube on how to replace the water pump for a washer. So, I went to their website and punched in the model number of the washer and found the water pump I needed in stock. It said it takes an average of 1.8 days for delivery. I ordered it on a Sunday and by Tuesday I had the part delivered to my front door. That night after work, I went down to the washer which I already had sitting face down on the floor with the back peeled off and the pump out from the weekend so I could compare how it looked with the online pictures. The new part came already mounted on a new bracket so it was just a matter of installing the bracket and hooking up the intake and output hoses. In order to make my job easier in the tight space, I removed the drain hose from the bottom of the wash basin by squeezing the pressure clamp with a large pair of adjustable pliers. I then installed the other end of the drain hose to the pump itself. I then hooked out the end of the output hose to the other part of the pump that pumps out the water to the sink. I first removed the clamp on the back of the washer that held the output hose to the back of the washer. That gave me more leverage to move the pump around for the installation. Once both hoses were clamped onto the pump, I used a ratchet socket wrench to install the two bracket bolts directly onto the base of the inside of the washer in the same holes using the same bolts as the old pump. Once that was tightly installed, I Hooked the other ends of the two hoses to the bottom of the wash basin and to the back of the washer respectively. FInally, I connected the ends of the two wires into the clips on the pump in the same order as the original pump. One white one black. Finally I screwed in all the short sheet metal screws that held the back washing machine cover on. It was about 12 screws. I then installed the drain hose with the original bracket to the back of the washer. Satisfied that everything was installed tightly, I stood the washer up and then hooked the water hoses back up to the faucets and tightened them snugly with the large adjustable wrench to ensure it did not leak. I plugged the washer back in, hooked the drain hose to the sink and then filled the basin up partially. Moved the control to the drain mode, and the water came out wonderfully. Note, when the pump was broken, I was able to drain most of the water from the wash basin by lowering the drain hose the a bucket on the floor and letting gravity do the work of draining it. I had to fill the bucket several times and dump it into the sink, before I was able to drain all the water out and then lay the washer face down on the floor to remove the back of the washer. Thanks for the part and quick delivery. I saved a lot of money on repairs by doing it myself.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
  • FABIO from FAIRFAX, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Shaking and making loud noise
removed three screws from back panel used putty knife to remove front panel and dampening strap were there to remove.
Parts Used:
Tub Dampening Strap
  • Gustavo from Harlingen, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Washer tub leaking
I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.
Parts Used:
Tub Dampening Strap Tub Seal
  • Don from Branson, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Plastic pipe developed a tear and leaked drain water.
Shut off power, removed both water hoses, detached drain hose, noticed the plastic drain hose was splitting, entered the model number in a web search, ordered part from PartSelect. received part next day and reversed previous process. Tested repair and no leaks.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose
  • JOHN from BERKLEY, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Tub would shake and the whole machine was threatening to jump
As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.
Parts Used:
Tub Dampening Strap
  • robert from bradford, VT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set, Wrench set
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Washer tub was banging around violently during spin cycle
After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.
Parts Used:
Tub Dampening Strap
  • Mark from Swanton, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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Washer was stalling in rinse cycle and not draining
Removed the front of the washer, screwdriver used. Disconnected the electrical wires from the pump. Removed the two bolts from the water pump bracket, socket wrench used. Disconnected the pump to exterior drain hose, plumbers wrench used to loosen tension clips. Drained all the water out of the washer tub, not easy not very neat. Disconnected the washer tub to water pump drain hose. Removed debris that was in the hose. Then connect the hoses to the new pump, bolted the bracket back in place, put the front of the washer back on.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
  • Stephen from RIDGE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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All Instructions for the GPRE8350K3WT
106 - 120 of 222