GMMP280ED4WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I was very confident that the problem with my GE Adora DDT595SSJ5SS was that it needed a new UI board. It had been beeping randomly for a couple of months, requiring a circuit breaker reset every so often, until finally it stopped working entirely. When I looked at the main board underneath, the LED was flashing too fast for me to count the blinks. These were the signature signs of the UI board going out -- and this did indeed turn out to be the problem. I've run the dishwasher several times since replacing the board, and there have been no issues.

The only real issue I had with the repair job was removing the dishwasher door. This was because the door of my model was held in place by a pair of tension cables (bottom left and bottom right of the unit), rather than hinges, and the cable method of attachment is less documented online. I had to get hold of a user manual for my unit to even discover this fact about it, since I had purchased my home with this dishwasher already present and did not see it being installed originally.

What I had to do was to pull the unit out about five inches, exposing the attachments for these cables (they are on the outside of the unit), so I could hook my heavy wire hook under them and detach them. If your dishwasher has these cables on the door, you really do need a hook tool of some sort to remove them. If you have strong wire, you can make one yourself as I did. Anyway, removing the cables allowed me to remove the door. After that it was straightforward to unscrew and unbolt the various panels, set the jumpers on the new UI board, and screw everything back together.

I should note that the cables were not tricky in any way, just that all of these Adora units seem to be a bit different and I happened to have one with a method of attaching the door that is not very well documented. I hope that this helps someone with this type of unit. If you see those videos online referring to detaching the door from hinges, and you can't find anything on yours that looks or feels like that, consider that you might have cables instead on the outside of the unit.

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

Super easy repair, just removed the old latch and replaced it with the new one.

Opened up the package and took off existing door handle. The new one snapped right into place. This took all of 10 seconds!

Old handle popped out by pulling back and out. Inserted new handle by pushing in and forward. Easy!

All I neede to do was buy the new part and snap it into place on the door. The hardest part was making the door usable while waiting for a new handle. The solution was good old duct tape. I just taped the old broken handle in place until the new one showed up.

I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair

First, I unplugged the dryer, pulled it out into an open area. I then removed the vent hose. I opened the front door and removed the 2 screws that hold the top panel down. Once removed, I lifted off the top which exposed the drum. Next, I remove the 2 screws along each side that allows the front door panel to detached. I noticed that there was damage to the plastic bearing and 3 bearing pads were missing. That was the source of the noise. Once the door panel is lifted off the cabinet, the wires to the safety switch must be pulled off so the door can be set aside out of the way. Then I went to the rear and remove 2 more screws that gave access to the motor, wiring and the tensioner for the dryer belt. Once I gained access to the belt, I slipped it off the tensioner and drive pulley. This allows the drum to be removed from the cabinet. WE wrestled the drum out before realizing that we should have removed another 2 screws securing the sides of the dryer to a cross support under the front of the drum. This would have made the removal of the drum much easier. Once the drum was removed, I had access to the heating coils. Upon examining, I saw that both had burned out at the far left terminals. Directions that came with the new heating elements gave clear instructions on how to install. It's a little daunting to thread both elements through all the insulators, but patience paid off. Everything went back together easily and the dryer started up and heated up just like new.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

good replacement procedure on you tube.

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

To get to the slides, needed to take off the front panel, the top and then can loosen the front of the dryer. Pull it out enough to get to the slides and replace them.

Removed 4 #1 Philips screws from 1side and add to the other side.

I thought the dryer timer had gone bad, but was probably just the knob. Exact parts on this site. Pulled dryer out at angle to access back. Removed the three top screws and the front panel easily pulled off. Removed knob to release the part and realized that the knob was probably the problem! Broken plastic.... I still replaced the dryer timer since the dryer is 2014. Took photo to ensure all wires replaced in same spots. Both parts had a letter with the wire color as well. I watched a youtube video and knew I had to rotate the timer counterclockwise to remove it from the panel - two slots hold it onto the panel. I pulled the wires one at a time, some needed pliers to remove. Installed wires on new part, installed timer on panel clockwise, re-attached front panel. When I re-installed the knob, it failed. I ordered the knob from here and used the signal knob temporarily until it arrived. Works great with new knob.

I followed You-tube instructions, very clear but not easy.
The door had to be taken off the dishwasher and then disassembled into its two halves, front and back, in order to remove the old handle and install the new.