GLD4600NC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

removed two bottom screws on inside door panel and slid seal onto spline, reinstalled screws. Job done

Hint on determining if the Main Conduit is the cause. Place a tapered flat piece of wood (wooden spatula) between the Main Conduit and rear of the dishwasher wall and remove any excess play.
Run the wash cycle and determine if the noise goes away or is reduced.

Removal and Replacement of the Main Conduit Assembly:
Opened the Dishwasher door and removed the lower and upper basket.
The upper basket required the two rubber gourmets on the front of the rail to be removed by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of white farthest tab towards the rear of the dishwasher of the rack slide end cap (PS2370502 – Item 652) and twist the screwdriver while gently pushing the top of the tab towards the rear of the dishwasher and gently pulling on the end cap (The rear tab needs to clear the upper rack slide).
Repeat this process on the other upper rack slide and remove the upper rack assembly.

Using a ¼ inch socket driver, remove the Main Conduit (PS651676 Item 585) screw located in the back of the Dishwasher wall and the screw from the upper spray arm (PS260547 Item 570) located on the roof of the unit.
Remover the lower Spray arm by gently pulling up and turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the fine filter hub nut (PS259078 item 454 ) by turning it counter clockwise and the fine filter (PS259068 item 452) The fine filter has a small tube going into the bottom of the dishwasher base that should be removed at the same time of the filter. Be sure to position it correctly when it is reassembled.
There is also a small stainless washer in the bottom of the fine filter housing. Take care not to loose it during the assembly and disassebly process

Remove the Main Conduit from the plastic assembly in the drain of the dishwasher by turning it counter clockwise. (Note, the new Main Conduit Assembly comes with this part pre assembled). Remove the same plastic piece from the new Main Conduit assembly by carefully lifting the clip on it.
Install the new piece back in the drain and tighten just prior to being pointed toward the back of the dishwasher.
Reassemble the Main Conduit to the drain piece and tighten it the remainder of the way and reassemble all parts in the reverse order they were removed.

When I first tried to fix the handle I could not figure out where the spring went. I went back online and looked at the diagram of the dishwasher on this site and learned where it went. Once I knew where every piece went it only took me about 5 minutes to put it back in and another 5 minutes to screw the cover back on. I am a newer homeowner and want to be able to do minor fixes. This was my first one and was very happy that I was able to do it on my own.

Unscrew supply tube and angle nut from old valve. Disconnect tube from valve. Install new valve. Obtain new crimp seal for water supply tube. Use Teflon tape. Reconnect water tube to valve.

Installing the gasket took about 45 seconds. It actually took more time to scrub the area clean prior to installing. One quick trick I found was to fold the replacement gasket in two, and use that mark to center the gasket and press it in from there. That way you don't have any guesswork as to how much slack to allow for when starting.

I do a lot of home repairs but I never worked on an appliance before. I simply removed the six phillips screws holding the inside cover on and then no tools. I poped open the cover over the mother board that was burned due to a power spike, unplugged it and plugged up the new one and poped it all back together. In hind sight I should have disconnected the power underneath.

Disconnect electrical power & shut off water supply. Remove front panel covers. Removed mounting screws (2). Unhooked water supply line & flow line. Took off old brass adapter fitting. Teflon taped fitting to new inlet. Performed reverse procedures. It ran just fine!!

Took screws out of door. Slid bottom seal off and slid new one on.

The repair was really easy. I ordered the part needed after looking at this website. I figured out the problem by looking into the forums. I ordered the part. It came within several days. I got home from work and after dinner pulled the dishwasher from under the kitchen counter. It was easy to do. I flipped the dishwasher on its side. Then removed the old part. It had a water inlet that required a fitting to be loosened with a wrench. It also had a flexible water fill that was attached with a cable clamp. (Remember to turn your water supply off first!) The wiring was disconnected by a simple harness. Four bolts had to be removed to pull the part off of the dishwasher body.

Installation was the reverse of this process. Have been using for a week now and the problem is corrected. Doing business with Parts Select is awesome. I know that over the last several years I have saved tons of money and learned that I can fix nearly any appliance by viewing this website.

Remove screws holding old hose. Attach clamp to new hose with nut driver. Tighten hose and clamp around attachment.

Easy as cake. Perfect part!

i looked on this website and found out which part was the drain pump. the pump was fastened to a drain hose, the dishwasher and power supply. unhooked power supply, noting which color wire belonged where. loosened the hose from the pump, got the new pump, installed. viola!

I found that the supplied part did not have threads to receive the bolts that were used in the original part. I had to locate thin nuts and bolts and very awkwardly fit those in behind the part. The orignal part would have just bolted on from the front. I almost returned the part as unsatifactory, but decided to make do. Otherwise it would have been a 10 min job.

No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela!
The valve was there, but unavailable.
A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up.
Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper.
A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter
All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller.
After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve.
I found it hear for under $10

My son found a water leak and cut the water supply off. He then pulled the machine from under the counter at which time I examined the valve under pressure and saw the leak. We cut the water off again and after tripping the circuit breaker we pulled the electrical connector and undid the mounting bracket which made getting the lines off the valve much simpler. New valve in hand I attached the lines and did a test then remounted the bracket and attached the electric. Easy as pie!

Removed the dishwaher from under the counter. Removed the adapter pipe by removing two nut drive jubilee clamps. inserted the new adapter pipe in the alignment grooves, Tightened the jubilee clamps. Tested the unit on rinse cycle. Reinstaled dishwasher under the counter. Easy.