GLD2800V00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Installing the gasket took about 45 seconds. It actually took more time to scrub the area clean prior to installing. One quick trick I found was to fold the replacement gasket in two, and use that mark to center the gasket and press it in from there. That way you don't have any guesswork as to how much slack to allow for when starting.

First, I took off all the pipe clamps and retaining brackets. Then, I pried it out of there. One of the tabs holding one of the other bits to the body got busted, but it didn't matter, as it is held on very well just by the pipe clamp connection. I stuck the new one in and re-attached all the hoses. The GIANT complication was that a new floor had been installed over the old floor, right up against the kick plate- so in order to remove the dishwasher, I had to slice open the counter, as the new floor prevented sliding it out. To prevent the problem recurring, I spray painted over the sump inlet to make it taste worse. This is the downside of a cat door.

Took screws out of door. Slid bottom seal off and slid new one on.

Removed the wire clip, then removed two screws on mounting bracket. Then disconected the hose. Removed the brass elbow.

Then reversed these steps and I was done.

I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!

Took off old funnel fill and put in funnel fill gasket and new funnel fill just to have a new one.

Turn off water .Remove 4 screws holding lower front panels.Remove panels, valve is on left . Remove 2 screws that hold valve , slip valve up over clip. Using pliers slide clamp back, remove hose from valve.disconnect wire clip , unscrew from water fill line. Install new valve in the reverse order

The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.

First of all the part I ordered came a lot sooner than expected.
I thought it would take 5 to 10 days.
I ordered it on a Tuesday and it was at my door on Thursday.
The part was difficult to take off as this was the first time I attempted this.
When the new part came, I saw that I went to too much trouble to take the old one off.
It was installed in about 40 minutes and we were off and running.

This isn't a terribly tricky repair, and the parts are cheap so it's worth a try!

(I had one tricky thing which was the door actuator broke while the door was shut. So I had to get the machine out of it's space without being able to open the front of the machine. I did this by lowering the feet in the front of the machine and then I used a hammer and flat chisel to break the two metal screws I had holding the top of the machine to the top of counter top...a little tricky!)

Remove screws from inside lower panel (where you put soap..the bottom) this will allow you to remove the inside of the door. But be careful as there are still wires attached so be careful to place the inside part without stressing the wires.

I needed to remove the metal harness and to open the black rectangular box that holds the interlock plunger so I could remove the plunger and spring (don't lose..and remember how it goes. take pictures if necessary). Then I was able to remove the broken actuator and see how it all fits together. It rests on top of the latch with notched side facing the inside of the machine. Make sure the notch is centered around where the interlock plunger is located.

Once you have the pieces fit together insert them into the door. Replace the plunger and spring and close the black rectangular box. Then replace the metal harness.

Hold everything in place and put the inside of the door back into position and lock it down with the screws.

You can test the door to make sure it's working but the whole mechanism is less functional when the machine isn't secured into its space. So, if you're mostly sure you've got it right, resecure the machine into its space making sure it's solid and then you should be good.

Like most everyone here I was very happy to accomplish this repair without calling in the repair service!! Awesome.

Disconnected the electricity, the drain hose, and the water supply from the dishwasher. Loosened the two screws from the countertop and pulled out the dishwasher. Turned it on to it's side. Saw the damaged inlet sump. Had to remove the Pump connector to get to the inlet sump. Checked it also and discovered that it was starting to develop a small crack from the inside. I decided to replace it as well. The job involves removing the hose clamps and removing the spray mechanizm from the interior of the dishwasher to spin out the inlet sump. Not a difficult job.

Due to loading a tall item in the lower rack of the dishwasher. The constant hitting of the spray hub, the hub broke.

I purchased the Middle Spray Arm Hub and using a hand nut driver, I unscrewed the nut and attached the new Hub and screwed it back in place.

The replacement was very easy and the cost of the part was very reasonable.

Delivery was quick and the dishwasher was up in running 10 minutes after the part arrived.

I would use this company again and I give them an A+ rating.

Dan Dailey

Received part, removed lower panel and shut water and power off to appliance. Used flash light to see under dishwasher, removed the two screws that held part in place. Loosed clamp that held the water tube in place to part. Placed towel down to catch water. Pulled the line out so I could get to the nut that is attached to inlet part. Unhooked the plug after all water was gotten up. The main knuckle that's attached to the pump was on so tight that I took it to my local gas station for an mechanic to unscrew it for me....I have arthritis in my hands. Station is only two mins from me and wasn't a problem for them to do for me. Came back put fresh Teflon tape on joint and reattached it to new part. Attached all hoses and clamps, plugged electrical prongs back in and attached bracket back to body of dishwasher. Turned water on and checked for leaks. Turned power back on and ran a cycle of dishes to wash....all went well. If the knuckle was on so tight the job would have only taken about 40 min at best.

Open dishwasher and remove the bottom spray wheel, filter, and unscrew the mounting bracket to release the pump connector below the bottom of the unit. Remove mounting screws at top front of dishwasher and carefully slide the unit out; you may have to pry side panels inward with a flat screwdriver in order to get the dishwasher past any cabinetry. Be careful not to pull the dishwasher too far out as the water supply and drain hoses could be damaged. Unplug the unit. Turn unit sideways and tip over onto its' back. At this point, the sump will have to be removed using a nut-driver and/or socket set. This will open access to remove the old pump connector. Replace the old connector with the new connector, and reassemble the sump, connecting and firmly tightening all connectors. Tip unit upright. Screw mounting bracket back into the bottom of the dishwasher and put the remaining parts back. Before pushing the unit back into it's nook, I advise running a quick cycle just to make sure there is no leakage. If there is no leakage, put the unit back, tighten the mounting screws and you're done.

Remove Base Access Panel; Removed Valve Mounting Bracket & Valve; Disconnected Wire Connector; Disconnected Supply Line & distribution Hose; Reversed the Process. Piece of Cake; Part was O.E.M.Component Exact Fit; Took Longer to Write this than it took for Fix. Thanks I Will Be Back for other Parts.!